Hidden away in Fiji's Yasawa Island group, north-east of Nadi, a prehistoric submarine ritual is played out. Like dog-fighting starfighters from a science-fiction epic, the two creatures banked, dived and barrel-rolled in perfect unison, the slightly smaller of the two trailing behind, appearing to be lining up for an attack.

But as the act played out in perfect slow motion harmony, it was clear the two underwater beasts were simply cavorting in an ancient ceremony only they understood. Manta rays (Manta birostris) are the largest of all the rays and unlike the all-too-deadly stingrays we are now familiar with, these massive yet gentle and placid plankton feeders just cruise and browse their way around the world's oceans.

Here on Drawaqa Island, not far from where Tom Hanks was marooned in 'Castaway', is Barefoot Lodge, a low-impact, no-electricity 'resort' for those wanting to enjoy a true Gilliganesque 'get away from it all' tropical island holiday.

Barely 100 metres from the bamboo breakfast bar is the northernmost tip of the tiny island, unambiguously dubbed Manta Ray Point.

At the rise and fall of the tide, the resident population of Manta Rays, as many as a dozen at a time, glide serenely along the narrow channel between Drawaqa and neighbouring Naviti Island.

I hover transfixed above one of the larger ones, just watching it glide effortlessly against the current, its span considerably wider than the limit of my outstretched arms.

From a depth of perhaps three metres, it suddenly angles sharply upward toward me. Is it asking me to dance? Is it moving to attack? Or I am I just in its blindspot?

I manage a metre of reverse thrust to allow it some room, when it rolls onto its back and stares at me point blank, its gaping mouth teaming with tiny, bright yellow fish continually attending to the host's dental hygiene.

We tango tantalisingly close for a few seconds, the proximity heightening my excitement. And then, like a fleeting apparition, it swoops down to the depths and vanishes. Later, after a bountiful lovo (earth oven) dinner of pork, chicken and walu (Spanish mackerel), we sit on the beach sipping cold beer and admiring the lurid phosphorescence of the night sky away from the city.

Past the faint silhouette of our transport, the 100-foot brigantine Ra Marama moored just off shore, a new moon casts a simmering glow on the calm waters.

Beneath the surface the misnamed devil fish are out there, patrolling the endless ocean on their quest for whatever it is they quest for. If only our own lives were that simple!

Captain Cook Cruises (Fiji) sail to Barefoot Lodge on Drawaqa Island as part of its Yasawa Island Sailing Safaris. Choose from three-day/two-night or four-day/three-night packages starting at FJ$545 pp twin-share, including transfers, all food and activities on shore, including the manta ray swim.