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Victoria's Travel Blog

Where to shop, stop and play in Buenos Aires


Locking horns with the locals at a futbol match, devouring a caramel ice cream and shopping for deco textiles are all part of the daily scene in the buzzing Argentinian capital Buenos Aires, according to native born expert Victoria Moxey. The Urban Walkabout founder shares her top travel tips, which naturally include where to go for the best shopping.

LOW DOWN ON BUENOS AIRES

From the moment you land in Buenos Aires, the capital and largest city in South American, one is struck by a bustling place with an elegant European feel to it. Buenos Aires is a city that offers multiple experiences so is sure to enamour even the most seasoned world traveller.

From wandering the cobbled streets of the old part of town (where real tango is danced in the little corner pubs) to gazing up at the faded architectural icons that make Buenos Aires feel like Paris, this is a great place to get lost in.

One can talk about futbol with the locals in an atmospheric old cafe while sipping on a 'cortado' (coffee); or for some retail action you can hit the incredible array of boutiques spread through Palermo Soho, the grooviest part of the city. A fiercely creative city, it is easy to see why Unesco has labelled it "The City of Design."

THINGS TO DO - CULTURE, SPORTS AND CAFES

Futbol Match
Go to a futbol match! A soccer game in Argentina is as much a cultural experience as it is a sporting one. The two main stadiums are River Plate (7597 Figueroa Alcorta) and "La Bombonera" (805 Brandsen), where the team Boca Juniors plays. There is usually at least one game at one of these stadiums every weekend.

Evita Museum
Calle Lafinur 2988, T: 4807-3168
www.evitaperon.org

Opened in 2002 on the 50th anniversary of the death of Evita Peron, an icon in Argentina's history, this museum displays the story of Evita's fascinating life through memorabilia. Evita's life ended tragically at 33 years of age when she died of cancer.

Teatro Colon
Toscanini 1180, T: 4378-7344
www.teatrocolon.org.ar

This beautiful French-Renaissance style theatre is world renowned for it superb acoustics, interestingly you can hear as well form the cheap seats as from the more expensive booths. Book tickets see a performance or take a guided tour of the workshops, rehearsal rooms, and stage to see the behind the scenes production process of its amazing performances.

Among the great composers who conducted their works at the Colon Theatre are Richard Strauss, Manuel de Falla, Aaron Copland, Krzysztof Penderecki, Gian-Carlo Menotti, Hector Panizza, Juan Jose Castro and Mauricio Kagel.

San Telmo Antique Markets
Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo,

San Telmo is one of the oldest barrios in Buenos Aires boasting an assortment of antique shops, art studios and of course, cobblestone streets.

Every Sunday there is a colourful antiques market in Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo, where you can pick up all sorts of nick-knacks including old movie posters, old photographs and postcards, antique cameras, milk and soda bottles, antique furniture, and more.

And take some time to meander through dozens of antiques shops around the plaza. There is often street performers including tango dancers to liven up the experience.

Cafe Tortoni
Av. de Mayo 825, Buenos Aires

Coffee lovers take note. Founded in 1858, Cafe Tortoni is the oldest coffee shop in the whole country. This historic cafe served as the artistic and intellectual hub of Buenos Aires since 1858, with famed guests such as Tango icon Carlos Gardel, famous writer Jorge Luis Borges, artist Benito Quinquela Martin, among others having frequented here.

With a sumptuous interior design featuring stained glass, yellowing marble, and bronzes, the place embodies the history of Buenos Aires. This is a must-visit stop for a coffee or a small snack when wandering along Avenida de Mayo.

Calle de Angeles

Chile 318, Buenos Aires
At Calle de Angeles, designed by the set crew of the Colon Theatre, diners sit in what appears to be a narrow old colonial street in San Telmo, with ironwork balconies and 10-foot-high doors. An accordionist plays most nights.

Don't forget to try FREDDO ice cream, which is known to be rich and creamy and irresistibly delicious. Ask for Argentine's favourite flavour: Dulce de Leche (caramel).

OBJECTS TO TREASURE

La Mersa
Honduras, Buenos Aires

With a spacious 250m2 shop and an unmistakable turquoise marquee, La Mersa stands out on Honduras Street in the Palermo neighbourhood. La Mersa (a play on the Spanish word for "tacky" or "kitsch" ) combines furniture, homewares, glassware and objets d'art of the '50s, '60s and '70s - irreverent, trendsetting, classic and vintage pieces- you will not leave empty handed.

FASHION FUELLED STOPS

Pablo Ramirez
Peru 587, San Telmo, Buenos Aires

With his mix of avant-garde, signature black and provocative aesthetics, Ramirez has pioneered Argentinean fashion in Europe since the early 90's. Monastic traces of restrained sexuality prompted his first collection 'Casta' (Spanish for 'chaste') which drew inspiration from nuns.

Turning a new page, his second collection drew inspiration from the Tango and its ambiguous dark sexuality. Ramirez chuckles at the design adventure from 'convent to the tenement...' Visit his website http://www.pabloramirez.com.ar/ for a further education on the man whose re-inventive nature and elegant simplicity has spawned a religiously fashionable following.

Etiqueta Negra
Posadas 1229, Recoleta, Buenos Aires
www.etiquetanegra.us

This is the label that dresses the coolest Argentine celebrities. Etiqueta Negra, founded by Federico Alvarez Castillo (a polo player), is the trendiest menswear label in town where the retail concept, collections and branding portray the best of Buenos Aires. Each concept store features their fashion alongside brand-inspiring items such as vintage BMW motorbikes or beautiful antique Jaguars in centre stage. The label is also available exclusively at Becker Minty in Sydney (7/ 81 Macleay Street via Manning St, Potts Point. T: 02 8356 9999)

Nadine Zlotogora
El Salvador 4638, Palermo Viejo, Buenos Aires
www.nadinez.com

Eccentric and original with an old-world feel to it, Nadine Zlotogora collections feature fitted bodices, long jackets and crushed skirts with lots of layers. Heavily embroidered, thick fabrics with organic designs reminiscent of a world gone by... think frothy confections, multiple layers, tulles and more.

Prune
Av Santa Fe 3253, Alto Palermo Shopping Centre, Buenos Aires
www.prune.com.ar

This is where to get your leather fix: shoes, bags and leather jackets with the best array of colours and designs. A unique luxury leather goods label with great designs with many stores across Buenos Aires.


Tramando
Rodriguez Pena 1973, Buenos Aires
tramando.com

Tramando means woof in Spanish and this company combines several business units related to design, located in a sophisticated maison in classy Recoleta in Buenos Aires, with its innovative concept-store at the ground floor. Tramando houses a steady team of designers that create clothing and deco textile items that are manufactured through alliances with other companies, and sold in the store. This brand recreates the world of objects weaving recycled remnants of the textile industry.

Rapsodia
Andres Arguibel 2899, Las Canitas, Buenos Aires.
www.rapsodia.com.ar

Rapsodia designs clothes for bohemian, romantic women who love rock'n'roll. With exotic fabrics and daring colours, their designs are inspired by the mix of music, art, and other eastern cultures. They also have another store in Las Canitas that sells exclusively vintage finds and is filled with treasures.

Nana Lou
Calle Baez 283, Buenos Aires
www.mlo.com.ar

Pretty and feminine, Mariana Lopez Osornio's jewellery designs have been featured on celebrities such as Naomi Campbell and Philippe Stark among others.


Gabriela Horvat
Honduras 5238, Buenos Aires.
www.gabrielahorvat.com

This young, contemporary jewellery designer from Argentina uses natural wool, silver and silk all bought from small producers in the South of Argentina.

To get Victoria's latest tips on finding Sydney's leading fashion, food and designer wares visit: http://www.urbanwalkabout.com/.


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