The author of the Lonely Planet's Shanghai Encounter Damian Harper shares his Travel secrets when wandering around Shanghai.
1) I'm going to Beijing for the Olympics - what are your top reasons as to why I should spend some time in Shanghai too?
Beijing is the political capital of China and has been - bar the occasional lapse - dynastic capital since the Mongol Yuan dynasty; Shanghai as a city is a far more recent creation, only dating back – as a trading entity – to the mid-19th century. As a result, Beijing can come across as being rather fuddy-duddy and parochial, but youthful Shanghai is full of energy and more outward looking verve.
Beijing has the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace and other sites associated with imperial power, dynastic prestige and an inwards-looking orientation; Shanghai is more about China's dealings with the outside world, so is more like Hong Kong. As a result, Shanghai has far less ancient history than Beijing, but has a much richer history of involvement with the West. This comes across most palpably in Shanghai's concession era architecture, a medley of various 19th and 20th century forms from Neoclassical to Art Deco. Shanghai's notable buildings are a major part of its style and panache. Divided into concessions from an early age, the city is far more European in flavour than Beijing, especially in areas such as the French Concession.
Few hotels in Beijing – except for courtyard hotels and the occasional relic – have much history. Shanghai has several notable historic hotels where you can immerse yourself in the past and get fully in the mood.
Shanghai has a more natural sense of style than Beijing and puts you within reach of Hangzhou, Suzhou and a delightful choice of nearby canal towns.
Beijing has no major river, while Shanghai - the name means 'on the sea' - is situated on the mighty Huangpu River, while the vast Yangzi River empties into the sea just north of town. This gives Shanghai a riverside aspect that arid Beijing simply lacks.
Last but not least, Shanghai is the main engine room of the Chinese economy, so expect a buzz and a lot of commotion.
Finally, everyone is going to be in Beijing for the Olympics, so why not escape the full-on Olympic frenzy and head to Shanghai, a city that is simple to reach from Beijing (see below).
2) How do I get from Beijing to Shanghai?
If you are in a rush, the quickest way is to fly. It's only a one hour and fifty minute flight, but you also have to factor in the time taken to get to Beijing's Capital Airport (up to an hour by taxi, although it will be quicker when the light rail connection is running) and having to arrive at the airport an hour before your flight. Upon arrival in Shanghai, you also need to consider having to get from Hongqiao Airport (or possibly Pudong International Airport) into the city proper. Taxis from Pudong are easy to get, but the trip will take another 50 minutes or so into Puxi; from the more central Hongqiao Aiport, queues for taxis can be nightmarish.
I would highly recommend an express overnight train, which is slower (around 12 hours) but far more fun and adventurous. Trains leave Beijing from around 7pm to 7.30pm, pulling into Shanghai train station early the next morning. Beds and compartments are well-designed and comfortable and even though you will not see too much of China (it's a nocturnal journey), there's all the fun of crossing a large part of the land by train and of course all the excitement of rail travel. One word of caution: if taking the train, book your ticket early (tickets are available up to 20 days in advance).
You could take a bus, by why bother?
3) What is your favourite food in Shanghai?
I don't have a favourite dish but what I find most appetising is the sheer variety of food in Shanghai, from Northeastern Chinese cuisine to ethnic dishes of the huge Southwest, the Islamic menu of the might Northwest, the furiously spicy dishes of Sichuan or Hunan, the sweeter dishes of Cantonese food, the saltier flavours of North Chinese cooking or the more subtle aromas of Shanghai dishes. To choose just one dish would be to sell Shanghai short as it's a major meeting ground of cuisine from across China, and of course, the world! Shanghai's most famous snack however is xiaolongbao – steamed parcels of dough-enveloped chopped meat bursting with scaldingly-hot meat juice.
4) How much approximately should we budget for each day (eg for food, transport and activities?)
Okay, well this of course depends on how you travel. The bottom line is around Y100 a day for the very cheapest form of subsistence, but this requires sleeping in a youth hostel dorm and dining at small local restaurants and religiously avoiding bars. However, to fully enjoy what Shanghai has to offer without either going totally overboard or counting pennies, I would allocate around Y1000 (AUS$162) a day, with the following breakdown. For a reasonably decent mid-range room you will need to spend around Y500-600; for eating well (but not at the very pinnacle of Shanghai dining) budget on around Y200 a day (one person). Transport – even if you take taxis everywhere – should not cost more than Y100 a day; if you take the metro, this will be more like Y20 a day. The cost of activities of course depends on how much you get to see, but I would put aside a further Y100 to Y150 for sights.
Quick Stop Itinerary
Visit the Bund first thing in the morning to catch the morning light on Lujiazui and Taichi practitioners performing their graceful moves. Walk along East Nanjing Rd and take the metro to Lujiazui station, emerging below the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, from where you can walk to the Jinmao Tower for views from the 88th floor observation deck and size up the adjacent Shanghai World Financial Center. Stroll along Riverside Promenade and gaze out across the Huangpu River at the Bund before jumping back on the metro and heading west to People's Square to visit the Shanghai Museum and the surrounding sights. After a visit to the Old Town, journey west into the French Concession for its chic and stylish array of shopping, dining and drinking options; this should tie up your day. If you have time, make it back for dinner and drinks at one of the Bund's fantastic restaurants and bars.
More about Lonely Planet's Shanghai Encounter
Shanghai Encounter 1st Edition, by Damian Harper © Lonely Planet Publications, 2008. $18.95.
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