San Sebastian, SPAIN
Airing Date: Jan 27th, 2003
Indulging in up to six meals a day, the people of San Sebastian really do know their food. The city has more bars and restaurants per head of population than anywhere else on earth.
Originally founded in the 12th century, San Sebastian is the culinary capital of Spain.
Today the heart of the city is Constitution Square, and one of the first things you'll notice upon visiting is the numbers on the balconies. This dates back to the Middle Ages when the Square was used for bullfighting. These numbered rooms with a bird's eye view of the action were rented by curious spectators.
A short stroll away at the Farmers' Markets is the essence of San Sebastian quality cuisine - fresh local produce. The Spanish believe eating is an adventure to be shared and a way of bringing people together.
After a light morning breakfast the second meal of the day is served at around ten or eleven. This meal is generally more substantial than the first, comprising of fare like prosciutto rolls, which are eaten standing up at tapas bars.
Wondering when the locals find time to work with all the eating? Workers generally clock on at about nine in the morning, break for lunch and siesta between one and three before heading back to work again until seven.
To walk off that double breakfast, take a stroll along La Concha Promenade and Ondarretta Beach. The walk from Old Town and back takes about two hours, so you'll be back in time to eat again. The Ondarreta rooftop caf serves traditional fare like olives and calamari.
The beach is at the base of Mount Igeldo. Visitors can take a ride to the peak to check out the spectacular view, or go for a spin at the nearby family fun fair.
If you're still hungry, mid afternoon is time for the fourth meal of the day - lunch. One of the basics of Basque cooking is seafood, with dishes like Mediterranean bream chargrilled over hot coals.
San Sebastian really springs to life at dusk when the locals follow a custom called Poteo, which involves yet more food. Friends meet after work and go from bar to bar drinking and eating. Drinkers usually call it quits sometime between nine and midnight, when it's time for the final meal of the day. This meal is usually a more substantial one. With the Aldamondo Restaurant serving dishes like sirloin steak and red peppers, San Sebastian really is a food lover's paradise.
The facts:
Thai Airways International flies to Madrid three times a week. Prices start from $1944 ex Sydney, $1927 ex Melbourne, $1926 ex Brisbane and $1824 ex Perth. This includes $200 travellers cheques.
Thai Airways International
Tel: 1300 651 960
Iber Tours 8 day walking tours start from $980 per person twin share including transfers, luggage handling, 7 nights bed and breakfast plus 5 dinners.
Ibertours
Tel: 1800 500 016
Four star hotels in San Sebastian start from $137 per night per person twin share.
A ride to the peak of Mount Igeldo costs around $3.60 return.National Tourist Office of Spain
Tel: 0011 65 73 73 008 (international)
The food:
Prosciutto rolls cost around $2.60 each, and the tapas bars operate on an honesty system.
Mayflower serves Mediterranean bream chargrilled over hot coals for around $20.
Small glasses of alcohol served during Poteo cost about $1.50.
Sirloin steak and red peppers at the Aldamondo Restaurant costs about $44.