This historic complex offers plenty of choice if you're looking for bars, pool tables, a beer garden or dance floor. Friday night is breaks night at the Chinese Laundry nightclub, while Saturday is Laundry night, featuring a changing roster or local and international DJs.
Civic HotelThis three-storey Art-Deco hotel is a bit of a 'world of entertainment'. Sure, there's drinking at the smooth and snappy lounge, but there are also great DJs on weekends, live jazz and rock music, and even a theatre in the basement (which turns into a nightclub on Friday and Saturday nights). And of course there's an upscale restaurant as well.
Old Fitzroy HotelA slice of London's Islington in the back streets of Woolloomooloo, this is a proper theatre pub but also a decent old-fashioned boozer in its own right. The little balcony is unbeatable on a hot steamy night and there are airy street-side tables. Wednesday night trivia is a hoot.
Beach Road HotelBehold the sight of the beautiful, bronzed and boozed-up at play. This huge multilevel fortress of rough-edged fun hosts live music and some good local DJs. Wednesday and Sunday the place gets crowded, as do the banks of pool tables. There's a decent beer garden.
Cricketers Arms HotelThe zenith of Surry Hills grunge, a cosy vibe fills this friendly pub with friendly locals who gather around the wraparound bar or, in winter, open fireplaces. There's tapas available, a small beer garden with wooden benches, and an intimate upstairs area.
HomeThis monster-sized pleasuredome took club design to a new level when it opened 10 years ago, and (at the time of research) was about to get a million-dollar overhaul - including a Roger Sanchez-designed DJ booth. Thursday's Rebel Rebel indie night is free and features live bands. The legendary Sublime (trance, hard house) is on Fridays, Famous on Saturdays (house) and Home On Sundays has an electro tinge.
ARQDownstairs is cool and loungey, with amoeba-shaped sofas and pool tables. Upstairs you'll find a state-of-the-art light and sound system, along with drag shows and good DJs. This large club has it all, and is a popular place to 'recover' on Sundays. Open Thursday to Sunday.
Q BarWith more reincarnations than Cleopatra over the years, this funky and eclectic joint (located in the Exchange Hotel) has DJs playing nightly. Weekends means house and dance music, but if you're not into that there's always the pool table and cocktail bar. On Fridays and Saturdays this place should be more accurately named Queue Bar.
Hopetoun HotelThis legendary little venue offers live music every night, running the gamut from folk to rock to rap. You'll occasionally catch internationally well-known indie acts playing here.
Taxi ClubChances are if you can't remember the end of last night, you probably finished it off at the Taxi Club. Refreshingly seedy after all these years, this place is a national treasure that no tourist brochure's going to tout, but that no tourist's visit should be without. Mind the stairs, which are breakneck-steep, even when you're sober.
BelindaSuper-stylish über-boutiquist Belinda Seper's namesake store offers up a small but excellent selection of just-so bags and shoes, along with a few fashions to add to the fun. Men, check out their menswear shop just a few doors down.
RM WilliamsThis long-established manufacturer and distributor of Aussie outdoor gear - such as drought-breakers (oilskin riding coats) and moleskin trousers - attracts every urban cowboy and cowgirl within the city limits. One of the best sellers is the classic elastic-sided boot, which is nothing less than an Aussie icon.
Mecca CosmeticaAptly named, this is the make-up mecca for beauty junkies. As well as their own brand, Mecca Cosmetica stock cult cosmetics from Nars, Kevyn Aucoin, Stila, Stephan Marais and Serge Lutens, as well as some cool and well-selected scents. Test the divine blood orange lotion, pick an inky dark nail polish and get a quick make-over if it's not too busy.
Alannah HillStep into this fun, fruity palace of fancy, where flirty, frilly, flimsy fabrics are made into chocolate-box dresses and bordello-style boudoir ornaments. Loud music helps fluffy chicks forget about their credit card bills as temptation knows no boundaries...
GleebooksGleebooks is widely regarded as Sydney's best bookshop. The aisles, packed with an impressive mix of politics, arts and general fiction, make for great browsing, and staff know their stuff. Their annual literary program attracts big-name local and international authors.They also carry children's books and used books in their annex at 191 Glebe Point Rd.
100% MamboBold, off-the-wall, comic-bookish graphics adorn street-, skate- and surfwear for men and women at this popular store. Mambo artist and musician Reg Mombasa is a local legend - he even designed the shirts for the Australian Olympic team in 2000. Expect a wide range of goodies (including watches, backpacks and coffee table books). Also at 80 The Corso, Manly.
Red Eye RecordsA great store for music junkies, the large and unusual stock covers Japanese, European and US imports along with Australian artists and plenty of independent releases. A secondhand section upstairs includes collectable CDs, DVDs, vinyl, books and posters. Knowledgeable staff take orders for the hard-to-find.
Puppet Shop at The RocksFrom the ceiling of this wonderful underground treasure chest dangles all manner of stringed things and bizarre, jointed toys. Meet Phillipe, the French owner and world traveller, as he shows you his Burmese and Thai puppets. Almost everything you see is for sale. Kids love this shop, as do grown-ups who haven't watched too many horror stories about killer mannequins.
Dinosaur DesignsIf the Flintstones opened a store, this is what it would look like. Oversized, colourful and chunky resin jewellery competes with vibrantly coloured home accessories (such as salad bowls and vases) that prove your urban coolness. Also in Strand Arcade .
Lesley McKay's BookshopIt's located a bit outside the centre, but if you make it here you'll find an excellent range of fiction, non-fiction, biography and history titles. There's an especially good selection of children's books, too, and the knowledgeable staff won't let you down.
Wayside ChapelA round-the-clock crisis centre in the heart of Kings Cross.
Access FoundationA very useful resource for disabled travellers.
Travellers Aid SocietyProvides general information, travel assistance, phone recharging and hot showers. There are luggage lockers available too.
Sydney Visitors CentreBookings advised for morning-after pill scripts and dive medicals.
Gay & Lesbian Tourism AustraliaProvides a wealth of information about gay and lesbian travel in Oz.
General Post OfficeThere is another branch located at 570 George St in the city.
National Roads & Motorists AssociationNRMA provides 24-hour emergency roadside assistance, road maps, travel advice and insurance, and discounted accommodation. It has reciprocal arrangements with the other state associations and similar organisations overseas - bring proof of membership with you.
Nannies & HelpersNannies & Helpers can sort you out with baby sitting, child care and even domestic duties or party help. They have bases in St Ives and Mona Vale, too.
Observatory HotelIf it's not the marble bathroom with the oversized bath, the sensational day spa or the feather doona, it must be the lavish indoor pool with its magical, twinkling starry sky that makes the Observatory special.
Hotel StellarAttractive, recently renovated rooms heal over-travelled bones at this almost-hip boutique hotel, nicely located right near Hyde Park. All 38 modern rooms have kitchenette, telephone, safe and Internet connection. A three-bedroom apartment is also available. Parking and breakfast cost extra.
BlacketOne of Sydney's better sleeping secrets, and with good reason - you wouldn't want anyone else to gazump your reservation either. It's a nice little bolthole with a sense of privacy and discretion. And its location is smack bang in the city centre.
Beach Road HotelThis chipper hotel is a large, box-like pub, two blocks back from the beach. Heavy on the beach-themed decor, it has several bars, a great beer garden and a couple of eateries. In fact, it's something of a world of entertainment for a lot of Bondi types, which means that if you're after a quiet night's kip, you'll need to go elsewhere.
Simpsons of Potts PointThis superb heritage home (1892) has been faithfully restored and converted into quiet and tasteful lodgings. The rooms are spacious, decked out with en suites, fireplaces and antique prints, while unsightly mod cons are discreetly hidden from view, so as not to disturb the old-fashioned good taste.
Wattle HouseHere's the homiest, most intimate hostel you could hope for - all wrapped up in a lovely Victorian house accommodating just 26 people. It's also tidy, friendly, efficient and comes with a sweet little garden. Not a party place, so expect some peace and quiet.
Bondi Beachouse YHAThis place, as you'd expect, is an incredibly popular choice with budget travellers, and is easily the best of Bondi's hostels. The staff here are as clued-up as you'd expect from a YHA joint, and there are excellent communal areas to enjoy, such as a big kitchen with industrial-strength equipment, spacious living and dining rooms and decent bathrooms.
Wake Up!Backpackers flock to this large, modern and almost arty hostel right near Central Station (and on top of what might well be Sydney's busiest intersection), where still-spiffy spaces (after a few years of wear and tear) await them (the seven floors each have a theme and colour), as do all the services they could ask for, in a friendly, professional environment.
Dive HotelThis delightful little boutique hotel has been beautifully decorated in a modern style that retains interesting original tilework, Art-Deco details and a sense of beach-house space with great sensitivity - thanks to well-known Sydney architect Virginia Kerridge.
Kirketon HotelThe Kirketon is going through some changes - with its once-famous restaurant and bar undergoing refurbishment and prices plummeting to the easily affordable. Despite all this change, the rooms are still in good shape, the service is still helpful and the location still ideal. That said, this is certainly a 'watch this space' kinda place.
Luna ParkA colourful landmark, this old-fashioned amusement park opened in 1935 and soon attracted thousands of people who flocked across the harbour on the new bridge. The park closed in the 1970s after a fatal fire on the Ghost Train and it has opened and closed a couple of times since. In 2004 it opened its toothy gates to the public once again. During school and public holidays Luna Park opens daily, with extended hours.
Museum of Contemporary ArtA slice of Gotham City on West Circular Quay, the stately Art Deco MCA has a fine collection of modern art from Australia and around the world (sculpture, painting, installation and moving image) and temporary exhibitions (prices vary) from the art world's superheroes. You'll often find Aboriginal art featured prominently. It's also home to the excellent MCA Store and a classy café.
Australian Centre for PhotographyThe not-for-profit ACP has wonderful regular exhibitions, plus its Project Wall, which highlights the work of up-and-coming artists. It's a good place to catch sight of Sydney's photographic talent, and you can pick up a copy of the centre's magazine, Photofile, while you're there. There's also a library and a stylish French bistro.
Brett Whiteley StudioDown a small lane in a quiet part of the suburb hides the former studio of this renowned modern Australian artist. You'll be able to identify it by the two oversized matches (one burnt, one intact) at the door - a miniature version of his famous sculpture in The Domain . The studio houses a selection of Whiteley's work and has been preserved to show how the artist operated before his untimely death in 1992.
Royal Botanic GardensThese expansive gardens are the city's favourite picnic spot, jogging route and strolling venue. Bordering Farm Cove, east of the Sydney Opera House, the enchanting gardens were established in 1816 and feature plant life from the South Pacific and around the world. They include the site of the colony's first paltry vegetable patch. Long before the convicts arrived this was an initiation ground for the Cadigal people.
Taronga ZooNot even the Governor General has views as good as Taronga's residents. A definite Sydney highlight, this exceptional zoo boasts a spectacular location which over 3000 furry, scaly and feathered critters (including a substantial number of Australian natives) call home. The animals are well looked after, and there are more natural open enclosures than cages.
Bondi BeachSydney's (indeed, Australia's) most famous beach, Bondi lures people from around the world with its promise of sun, sand, surf and exposed skin, and all just 8km from the CBD. The average water temperature is a pleasant 21°C. If you don't like it rough, there are saltwater swimming pools at either end. You can also see Aboriginal rock engravings a short walk north.
Sydney Opera HouseGloriously white and brilliantly sharp, Australia's most recognisable icon sits dramatically at the tip of Bennelong Point. On a sunny day the Opera House is postcard-perfect; its startling curves and points a pinnacle of architectural genius inspired by the segments of a mandarin. It's a truly memorable place to see a performance, listen to a free outdoor concert or sit under a cafe umbrella and watch harbour life go by.
Sydney AquariumThe aquarium's three oceanariums are moored in the harbour and the main one holds some truly impressive sharks, rays and other big fish that can be veiwed from underwater tunnels. The finale at the Great Barrier Reef 'theatre' is absolutely breathtaking. Needless to say, kids love it. Disabled access is good. Discounted combined tickets are available with Sydney Tower and/or Sydney Wildlife World.
Art Gallery of NSWWith its elegant Classical Greek frontage and modern rear end, the state's main gallery has an outstanding permanent display of Australian art (including a substantial Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander collection), a well-regarded Asian gallery, a Western collection starting from the 16th century, and some inspired temporary exhibits (prices vary).
Raw BarWhile the traditional way to eat fish in Bondi is with a coating of batter and a couple of scallops, these days Bondi's movers and groovers share big plates of super fresh sushi and sashimi at this wasabi-hued, bento-box sized restaurant. Views of Bondi beach are a bonus.
BécasseAs you enter through the heavy black velvet drapes you'll know you're somewhere special. The bling of crystal chandeliers brings Sydney sparkle into an elegant but austere dining room, currently ranked Sydney's best. Try the degustation menu (around
Vegans need look no further than this flashy spot, located underneath the plaza in front of the cathedral. Lunch means tasty yum cha, and the simple, almost ascetic atmosphere will feed your soul, although the windy outdoor seating may bring you back to earth.
Billy KwongThere's something wonderfully egalitarian about top restaurants where queuing's required - perfect for travellers who don't have the luxury of booking weeks ahead. Chef Kylie Kwong serves up a tempting seasonal menu made from the best organic, sustainable, fair trade ingredients available.
A Fish Called CoogeeThis busy little fishmonger sells fresh seafood cooked many different ways. Grab some great takeaway fish 'n' chips, crumbed calamari or battered prawns and sit on the beach, 'cause you probably won't be able to snag one of those gleaming outdoor tables - and with the sands so close by, you won't want to.
RockpoolSome of Sydney's finest food is produced at this sleekest of Neil Perry's restaurants, which has been tingling diners' culinary senses for over 15 years. The award-winning seafood is exceptional, with filtered tanks keeping critters fresh until the very last minute. Your cheque will be astronomical, but Rockpool remains a quintessential Sydney experience.
BBQ KingVegetarians should give this place a wide berth: carnivores, enjoy! The roast duck and barbecued pork are the main attractions here, and they are deliciously decadent. It's an old-school eatery, with bustling service, generous pots of tea and a lack of fancy decor. Since it closes late, it is popular as a post-cinema haunt.
Sean's PanaromaYou won't be disappointed in the always-evolving dishes at this modest eatery overlooking Bondi beach. Sean Moran and his team work hard to whip up complex dishes like preserved duck with potato cake, cabbage and pickled cherries. Sidewalk tables offer (sometimes windy) views; the ocean's charm makes your Barossa milk-fed lamb taste all the sweeter.
LureThis small fish shop will make you look good eating fish 'n' chips and sipping organic coffee, right on Taylor Square. Its gleaming sidewalk tables are airy and attractive, while a fancier back area offers privacy for the celebrity in you. Order the salmon teriyaki salad or salt 'n' pepper squid and feel even more special.
East OceanInsanely popular on weekends for its yum cha(over 100 kinds), this massive Chinese restaurant can serve up to 1000 hungry folk - mostly discerning Asian diners - on a busy day. Popular dishes include the barbecue pork and roast duck, but don't miss the fresh seafood imported from Tasmania. Serves yum cha for both lunch and dinner.