Jerudong is the playground of the sultan, where he indulges in his favourite pastime, polo. Jerudong Park is a huge complex with a polo stadium, luxurious stables, a golf course and trapshooting and croquet facilities. Unfortunately, you'll only be allowed in if you've been invited.
The hoi-polloi head to Jerudong for the Playground, a massive amusement park with a huge range of rides. Behind the park is Jerudong Beach, with stalls selling fish and some great cliffs. Jerudong is just north of the main highway between Bandar Seri Begawan and Tutong - it's best visited by car.
Bandar, the only town in Brunei of any size, seems too big for its 60,000 inhabitants. It's a neat, clean, modern city with wide roads and overstated public buildings and home to Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque, one of the most impressive modern mosques in the East.
Originally built in 1958, the giant golden-domed mosque stands close to the Brunei River in its own artificial lagoon. The interior is just as luxurious, with Italian marble walls, luxurious carpeting and an elevator.