In 510 BC the Greeks founded Nesebār, ancient Mesembria, on the site of a Thracian settlement. The town sits on a small rocky peninsula connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus. There are still remnants of the second-century city walls, and stone and timber houses line winding, cobbled streets.
It was once of great importance to Byzantium as a trading town, although many of the 40 churches built in Nesebār during the 5th and 6th centuries are now in ruin. Nesebār ceased to be an active trading post in the 18th century and today lives mostly from fishing and tourism.
The majestic Rila Mountains south of Sofia are a hiker's dream. The classic trip across the mountains to Rila Monastery can be done in a couple of days, depending on your mettle. The dedicated can start at the Borovets ski resort and climb Musala Peak, the highest mountain in the Balkan Peninsula.
Nestling in a narrow valley, Rila Monastery helped to keep Bulgarian culture alive during the dark age of Turkish rule from the 15th to the 19th centuries. The monastery was founded by Ivan Rilski in 927 and served as a retreat for hermits; it was moved 3km (2mi) to its present location in 1335.
Sofia's city centre is an eclectic mix of architectural styles, largely rebuilt after WWII bombings and complete with a yellow brick boulevard. The city is compact and diverse; a great place to get your bearings before heading off to discover the real Bulgaria.
Like other major capital cities, Sofia has its problems, including drug-related crime and some of the world's nastiest drivers; however, the EU's 'Beautiful Bulgaria Project' is sprucing up historic buildings and energising old neighbourhoods.