Things to See in Toronto

Recently the Bier Markt has gone upscale; the bouncers behave as if this were a nightclub. But it's still worth stopping by, if only to taste from a beer menu that covers Belgium to South Africa to Trinidad, with over 150 varieties all told.

Consuming three Victorian houses, the Madison is positively elephantine. A 25-to-35 crowd is lured through the doors - billiards, darts, a sports bar, polished brass, antique-looking lamps lighting the curtained upper floors at night, five patios and plenty of hot babes. Strictly no rollerblades; hot babes on rollerblades OK.

Counted among the city's fave repertory cinemas, this Art Deco theatre with a two-tiered balcony screens a wonderfully varied schedule of new releases, art-house flicks, shorts, documentaries and vintage films.

Literally the 'House on a Hill,' this mock medieval castle towers above The Annex on a cliff that was once the shoreline of the glacial Lake Iroquois, from which Lake Ontario derived. Climb the 27m Baldwin Steps up the slope from Spadina Ave, north of Davenport Rd, past flowering gardens and benches.

Built in 1971 on three artificial islands offshore from Exhibition Place, this 40-hectare recreation complex is an easy way to beat the summer heat. It is starting to feel a little dated, but Ontario Place still offers something for everybody. A 'Play All Day' pass gets you to most of the rides and attractions, including Soak City waterpark and walk-up seating at the Cinesphere, where 70mm IMAX films screen on a six-storey curved screen.

A restored masterpiece, the Elgin & Winter Garden is the world's last operating double-decker theatre. Built in 1913, the stunning Winter Garden was built as the flagship for a vaudeville chain that never really took off, while the downstairs Elgin theatre was converted into a movie house in the 1920s.

Established by the British in 1793 to protect the town of York, as Toronto was then known, Fort York was almost entirely destroyed during the War of 1812, when a small band of Ojibwa warriors and British and local troops couldn't halt the US incursion. The Americans went on to raze and loot the city but left of their own accord after just six days. The fort was rebuilt between 1813 and 1815.

From the Centre Island ferry terminal, wander past the information booth and first-aid station to quaint Centreville. Squeezed together on a few hundred acres are an antique carousel, goofy golf course, miniature train rides and a sky gondola. Far Enough Farm zoo presents kids with plenty of opportunities to cuddle something furry and step in something sticky.

Inside the strangely isolated 1917 Toronto Harbour Commission building, this opulent baroque dining room glows with brass lamps and plush booths. Indulge yourself in an eminent variety of steaks, sterling salmon (around 32) or seasonal Florida stone-crab claws and broiled Caribbean lobster tail. Side dishes seem pricey but are big enough for two people. Reservations essential.

An Annex fixture, this faded yellow corner bistro has a daily-changing menu of Mediterranean and New World fusion dishes, with plenty of creative choices for vegetarians. Service is A+ and the wine list features Niagara ice varietals and labels from far-flung Oregon and Australia. Why do people forsake the cozy booths inside for the claustrophobic patio?

This truly divine caterer's creation reigns over the ground floor of the SoHo Metropolitan Hotel. In the sun-drenched airy cafe, breakfast brings an impeccable cappuccino and croissant with chocolate butter, while the sleek modern dining room harbours a chef's table, offering lobster ravioli or an ocean hot plate with citrus-ginger dipping sauce at night. Take your dinner in the lounge to sample from the same amazing menu.