Once enclosed by a star-shaped wall, Lefkosia's boundaries today are dictated by the UN's Green Line, which makes the city the world's only - and hopefully the last - divided capital. Lefkosia remains a friendly, laid-back place, with good restaurants, museums, and a lively art scene.
A visit here should give you a less touristy view of the country than you'll get if you stick to the coastal towns. The old town, inside the 16th-century Venetian walls, is the most interesting part of Lefkosia, with the city centre and municipal gardens just outside the wall on the south-west side.
The Troödos region mountains, in the country's south, are unforgettable and may be the one place where you're free of package tourists. Popular with skiers, hikers and the heat-intolerant, Troödos is littered with 15th-century frescoed monasteries, wine-making villages and pleasant walking trails.
Kykkos Monastery, in the western Troödos, is the best known but most touristy monastery. Built in the 12th century, it's been completely renovated and contains a museum of religious icons. Asinou is probably the most beautiful of the area's monasteries, but it's a bit of a trek to get to it.