When you come to see the V&A, give yourself plenty of time, because we can guarantee that you'll spend much longer than planned in this brilliant museum. The Museum of Manufactures, as the V&A was originally known when it started in 1852, specialises in decorative art and design, with four million objects collected over the years from Britain and around the globe.
British MuseumOne of the world's oldest and finest museums started as royal physician Hans Sloane's 'cabinet of curiosities' - which he later bequeathed to the country - and carried on expanding its collection (which now numbers some seven million items) through judicious acquisition and the controversial plundering of empire. It's an exhaustive and exhilarating stampede through world cultures
London EyeIt takes a gracefully slow 30 minutes and, weather permitting, you can see 25 miles in every direction from the top of the world's tallest Ferris wheel. To the west lies Windsor, while to the east the sea. In between, you have the chance to pick out familiar landmarks. A ride in one of the wheel's 32 glass-enclosed gondolas holding up to 25 people is something you really can't miss if you want to say you've 'done' London.
Tate ModernThe public's love affair with this phenomenally successful modern art gallery shows no sign of waning. Serious art critics have occasionally swiped at its populism (eg Carl Höller's funfair-like slides, Olafur Eliasson's participatory The Weather Project, both in the vast Turbine Hall) and poked holes in its collection. But 5 million visitors make it the world's most popular contemporary art gallery, and London's most visited sight.
Highgate CemeteryMost famous as the final resting place of Karl Marx and other notable mortals, Highgate Cemetery is set in 20 wonderfully wild and atmospheric hectares with dramatic and overdecorated Victorian graves and sombre tombs. It's divided into two parts. On the eastern side you can visit the grave of Marx. It's an amusing coincidence that buried opposite is the free-market economist Herbert Spencer - Marx and Spencer, does it ring a bell?
Royal ObservatoryIn 1675 Charles II had the Royal Observatory built on a hill in the middle of the Greenwich Park, intending that astronomy be used to establish longitude at sea. The Octagon Room, designed by Wren, and the nearby Sextant Room are where John Flamsteed (1646-1719), the first astronomer royal, made his observations and calculations.
Sir John Soane's MuseumThis little museum is one of the most atmospheric and fascinating sights in London. The building is the beautiful, bewitching home of architect Sir John Soane (1753-1837), which he left brimming with surprising effects and curiosities, and the museum represents his exquisite and eccentric taste.
Old Operating Theatre Museum & Herb GarretThis unique museum, at the top of the narrow and rickety 32-step tower of St Thomas Church (1703), focuses on the nastiness of 19th-century hospital treatment. The garret was used by the apothecary of St Thomas's Hospital to store medicinal herbs and now houses an atmospheric medical museum delightfully hung with bunches of herbs that soften the impact of the horrible devices displayed in the glass cases.
Whitechapel Art GalleryIt's all change at the Whitechapel Art Gallery as it doubles its size by expanding into a disused library next door. During that time, one of the capital's more interesting contemporary art galleries becomes the Whitechapel Laboratory, with changing exhibitions, live music, poetry, talks and film. The new space will contain three new galleries, an Education and Research Tower and a street-facing café.
National GalleryWith more than 2000 Western European paintings on display, the National Gallery is one of the largest galleries in the world. But it's the quality of the works, and not the quantity, that impresses most. Almost five million people visit each year, keen to see seminal paintings from every important epoch in the history of art.
The RookeryTaking its name from London's notorious slums (Fagin's house in Oliver Twist was set a few streets west) this antique-strewn luxury hotel recreates a Dickensian ambience with none of the attendant grime or crime.
Barmy Badger BackpackersThe Barmy Badger Backpackers is not quite as crazy as the name might suggest, but it's still a brilliant no-frills place to stay for the budget traveller in this exorbitant city.
New Cross InnSister property to the Dover Castle Hostel in Borough, this 80-bed hostel is in New Cross southwest of Greenwich. Rooms have basin and fridge, there's a big bar and two new kitchens. Reach here most easily by train from London Bridge station in about six minutes. Dorms have four to eight beds.
Palmer's LodgeReminiscent of a period murder mystery (in a good way), this former children's hospital has bags of character. Listed by English Heritage, it's stuffed with cornicing, moulded ceilings, original fireplaces and imposing wooden panelling.
One AldwychHoused within an elegant corner building originally built in 1907 as the offices of the Morning Post, the extremely stylish One Aldwych manages to pull off understated luxury effortlessly.
Charlotte Street HotelAnother classic from the folks at the Firmdale group who have been single-handedly making London an altogether more beautiful place with their crop of off-the-wall hotels that combine zany design with luxury.
St Christopher's Inn GreenwichThe nicest of the St Christopher's chain of hostels, the Greenwich branch occupies a lovely old Georgian building sitting cheek-by-jowl with Greenwich station. Despite this location it's much quieter than some of its sister properties.
Luna & Simone HotelDespite having a name that sounds like it should be on the Costa del Sol, this sparkling midrange option is a rare find in central London and is easily the best choice in the area. Most reasonably priced hotels aren't this good.
Southwark Rose HotelFor those looking to spend a weekend south of the river, the Southwark Rose Hotel is a decent choice. It does a pretty good job of offering minimalist design for less than you might pay in the centre of town.
Covent Garden HotelSmack bang in the heart of Theatreland, this hospital turned romantic boutique hotel is unquestionably one of the most charming places to stay in London - one of designer Kit Kemp's finest.
Australian ConsulateThis comprehensive centre has a map and guidebook shop, hotel-booking desk, travel desk and theatre-ticket agency.
City Of London TICInformation about the Square Mile and more, in a booth opposite St Paul's Cathedral.
US EmbassyHandy information centre, not far from Tate Modern and Shakespeare's Globe.
South African ConsulateThis cosy little place is exactly the sort of restaurant you wish you could find everywhere in Soho. Two floors of wood-panelled bohemia with a mouth-watering menu of French (confit of duck) and European (penne with goat's cheese) country cooking - it's a real find and reservations are essential.
Brick Lane Beigel BakeThis renowned round-the-clock bakery turns out some of London's springiest, chewiest bagels and attracts daytime and after-club crowds. It's a slice of real London, but not kosher (in the Jewish sense). The hot salt-beef bagels have eager punters queueing out the door, a sure sign of a good thing.
Busaba Eathai BloomsburyThis is a 21st-century Wagamama-style noodle bar - a bit more stylish with it, but brought to you by the same man, Alan Yau. Below ceiling fans and golden buddhas, customers lap up delicious Thai curries and soups on dark wood benches and communal tables. There's another branch on Wardour St in Soho.
Busaba EathaiIt's harder to get a seat at this, the original branch of this popular Thai chain, than at its Store St equivalent. Still it's busy and full of life.
Empress Of IndiaThis exquisite, much welcomed pub conversion on the western edge of Victoria Park belts out excellent modern British cuisine, with such fine dishes as sorrel soup with Cheddar scone, saddle of venison and roast suckling pig. We love the elegant bar, the Raj-era murals on the wall, the chandeliers made of mussel shells and the seamless service. Breakfast is available daily from .
OttolenghiThe busiest of what is now a three-outlet operation, including the Notting Hill branch, this very sleek, very minimalist bakery-cum-restaurant looks as good as its food tastes, and that's saying something. The set menus (from
Domed skylights, high ceilings, parquet flooring and a book-lined mezzanine - this just had to be a library in a former life - and the hushed, efficient staff only add to the illusion. The atmosphere is colonial club and the food modern - or perhaps palace - Indian. Set lunches of two or three courses start from
Just around the corner from London's original gastropub, the Eagle, this upstart is giving the competition a run for its money. Despite this, it's still easy to get a seat within its traditional walls and absorb the menu, which will include such things as a salad of duck hearts, beetroot and orange and braised ox cheek.
BumpkinThis faux rustic outfit is good for an unpretentious helping of old-fashioned comfort food. Wash down everything from dorset crab bruschetta, to beef pie and huge steaks, with a glass of Guinness, Adnam's or some very unusual whisky cocktails. The cooking's not fancy and it does get noisy, but there's something uncomplicatedly pleasant about the experience.
Eat & Two VegOne of the best vegetarian experiences in London, Eat & Two Veg is bright and breezy with charming, friendly staff and a smart 21st-century American diner look. The menu is international eclectic - Thai green curry, Lankawi hotpot - and the mock meat dishes ('sausage' and mash, cheeseburger and fries) would fool even carnivores. There's plenty on offer for vegans too.
Harvey NicholsThis is London's temple of high fashion, where you'll find Chloé and Balenciaga bags, London's best denim range, a massive make-up hall with exclusive lines, great jewellery, and the fantastic restaurant, Fifth Floor.
Lesley Craze GalleryConsidered one of Europe's leading centres for arty, contemporary jewellery, this has exquisitely understated, and sometimes pricey, metal designs. There's also a smaller selection of mixed-media bangles, brooches, rings and the like (to the right of the main door), where prices start from about around
This enchanting store has been voted the best local delicatessen in London by radio station LBC and the Independent newspaper, and we wholeheartedly agree with the verdict. There is a fantastic meat counter, with the most aromatic pancetta you'll ever try, the jarred chutneys, terrines and marinated vegetables are a wonder and you'll find unusual flavours like caramelised onions, damson jam and mulberry salad dressing. The cakes, chocolates and Union Roasters coffee are delicious, too.
Daunt BooksAn original Edwardian bookshop, with oak panels and gorgeous skylights, Daunt is one of London's loveliest travel bookstores. It has two floors and the ground level is stacked with fiction and non-fiction titles; the lower ground is where to head if you're travel focused.
BBC World Service ShopAll the wonderful episodes of Planet Earth or gross hilarity of Little Britain are available here, as well as many other British film and TV classics. Only fools and horses would skip a browse through the racks here.
Fortnum & MasonLondon's oldest department store celebrated its 300th birthday in 2007 by not yielding to modern times (its staff are still dressed in old-fashioned tail-coats) and keeping its glam food hall supplied by the famed food hampers, cut marmalade, speciality teas and so on. Downstairs is an elegant wine bar designed by the man behind the Wolseley. Clothes, gifts and perfumes occupy the other six floors.
HamleysReportedly the largest toy store in the world and certainly the most famous, Hamleys is like a layer cake of playthings. Computer games are in the basement, with the latest playground trends at ground level. Science kits are on the 1st floor, preschool toys on the 2nd, girls' playthings on the 3rd, model cars on the 4th, while the whole confection is topped off with Lego world and its café on the 5th floor.
Cockfighter Of BermondseyT-shirts with attitude, and other clothing and accessories, are found in this small boutique and worn across the pages of celebrity magazines by DJs and pop stars.
Rigby & PellerThis old-fashioned place makes the Queen's bras, but Rigby & Peller's fitting and alteration service - open to us plebs - is equally legendary. Get yourself measured - many a customer has been surprised to discover they've been wearing the wrong size for years. Off-the-peg underwear and swimwear is also available. There's also a Knightsbridge branch (3 Hans Rd; Knightsbridge).
Paul SmithPaul Smith represents the best of British classic with innovative twists in both his mens- and womenswear. For bargains, try the sale shop.
FabricThis superclub is still the first stop on the London scene for many international clubbers. A smoky warren of three floors, three bars, many walkways and unisex toilets, it has a kidney-shaking 'sonic boom' dance floor. The crowd is hip and well-dressed without overkill, and the music - mainly electro, house, drum 'n' bass and breakbeat - is as superb as you'd expect from London's top-rated club. Queues are worst from about -.
Earl of LonsdaleWe love this place, especially after schlepping around the market all morning. Despite its being bang in the middle of the market, the Earl is peaceful during the day, with a mixture of old biddies and young hipsters who seem to cohabit happily as they munch the so-so fish and chips and burgers and sit in the private booths surrounding the bar. There are Samuel Smith ales, and a fantastic back saloon with huge leather armchairs to sink into.
GhettoIn a sweaty basement, this leading gay club has nevertheless established itself as the hippest Soho has to offer, with its 1950s American milk bar-style white seats and red walls. The most talked about night is Nag Nag Nag, where both Boy George and Yoko Ono have appeared, followed by Friday's in-yer-face The Cock. There's also Thursday's indie-music Mis-shapes and Saturday's trashy Wig Out.
EggEgg has the most superb layout with three exposed concrete rooms (across three floors), a garden and two gorgeous tropical roof terraces (relieving the edgy, exiled smokers). Located off York Way, the club hosts 'omnisexual' nights, with a mix of electro, minimal and house. At weekends, a free shuttle bus runs from outside American Carwash on York Way to the venue between and every 30 minutes.
Some say Egg would fit perfectly in New York's meat-packing district, but we're keeping it.
KokoOnce the legendary Camden Palace where Charlie Chaplin, the Goon Show, the Sex Pistols and Madonna all played gigs in the past, Koko is keeping its reputation as one of London's better gig venues - Madonna played a Confessions on a Dance Floor gig here in 2006 and Prince gave a surprise gig in 2007. The theatre has a dance floor and decadent balconies, and attracts an indie crowd with Club NME on Fridays. There are live bands almost every night of the week.
LoungeloverEvincing the junk-shop-rearranged-by-gay-stylist look, here chandeliers, antiques, street lanterns and comfy lounge chairs materialise just seconds away from the run-down streets outside. Coming here once is never enough, but prepare to cough up around
This very stylish bar at the front of an Eastern European restaurant specialises - not surprisingly - in vodkas; some four dozen of them are at hand for your perusal and enjoyment. The airy, high-ceilinged dining room, with a glass roof and lovely amber wall, is just behind should you need some blotter.
HollybushA beautiful pub that makes you envy the privileged residents of Hampstead, Hollybush has an antique Victorian interior, a lovely secluded hilltop location, open fires in winter and a knack for making you stay longer than you had intended at any time of the year. Set above Heath St, it's reached via the Holly Bush Steps.
Shakespeare's GlobeThe Globe is a near-perfect replica of the building on this site where Shakespeare himself worked in from 1598 to 1611. Even if the particular production you attend comes across a bit 'theme-park Shakespeare' - and they occasionally do - you'll never forget being in this up-close-and-personal open-roofed theatre in the round.
George InnThe George is a rare bird indeed - a National Trust pub. It's London's last surviving galleried coaching inn, dates from 1677 and is mentioned in Dickens' Little Dorrit. It is on the site of the Tabard Inn (thus the Talbot Yard address), where the pilgrims in Chaucer's Canterbury Tales gathered before setting out (well lubricated, no doubt).