Things to See in Frankfurt

The smoke-stained walls, the iron fan above the door and those ancient floorboards all suggest an inelegant, long-toothed past. We love this place, others say the noise level snaps their nerves. The hallmark Rösti (shredded potato pancake), large servings of tasty salads and other main courses have been served in this restaurant-bar for over 100 years.

Orfeos is an art house cinema, a restaurant and a bar rolled into one. If the feet are sore or your spirit is in need of a shot of cinematic art, the distances won't kill you - it's about 10 paces between table, bar and arthouse cinema, all in an ambience dominated by timbers.

In this bustling Italian eatery you get an electronic card at the door, and let one of the frisky young just-off-the-bus chaps swipe it through the till after he's dashed together your dish before your very eyes. You pay when you leave. The pasta and salads are very decent. Wash them down with an Italian red or white from the bar. Keep your card in your pocket and not on your tray, lest it gets whisked away.

The food in this upmarket pub-restaurant relies on pure flavours and the wine seduces your tongue into parts of your mouth you didn't know were there. The downside of this wonderful Frankfurt institution is that the air can be shocking at times, especially if someone's tugging on a cigar or a pipe at the next table. Stylish modern German cuisine with plenty of international extras are the order of the day.

This French bistro is something very special. Treat yourself to a five-course menu or a lunch menu. The champagne list sparkles with class, and the little outside garden area, completely enshrouded in vines, is as romantic as anything on a summer's nights.

Hidden away in the quiet backstreets of Sachsenhausen, this handsome mock-Tudor mansion houses one of Frankfurt's most eccentric gems. Each of the (mostly enormous) rooms is decorated in a different style, but they're all distinctly retro and bordering on the kitsch.

Sounding like a trashy Hollywood celebrity, this well-regarded Frankfurt hotel has also bedded a few pop stars and royalty in its day. Cheaper than Frankfurt's other top-end options, the Sheraton is a good bet for travellers looking for the standard business hotel amenities without needing cutting-edge style.

The Excelsior's location couldn't be more convenient: bang opposite the entrance to the main train station, it's easy to find no matter how jet lagged or jaded you're feeling. Once inside, the decor is no-nonsense, '80s style. So far, so bog standard. What makes this hotel stand out is the impressive list of free extras that are included in the room prices.

A hospital on the left bank of the river Main, across the river via Eiserner Steg bridge.

The hospital's International Medical and Representative Services has many international physicians.

laundry

A strapping Leonardo DiCaprio-type guy might dash out and unexpectedly plough the length of the ornamental pool (clothed, take note) - it's been known to happen here. And much more too, for 'KingKa' is legendary, with its own live club band Thursdays, dance beats on weekends, private rooms and that tempting watercourse in one bar. But while you're here, explore the yard and neighbouring buildings. In summer, the magic words will be 'Sansibar Roofgarden'.

While only about the size of a 70s Hi-Fi the Stereo Bar has been a Frankfurt favourite for almost a decade. It is an eclectic little joint: depending on the night you can find yourself getting down to funk, soul or garage classics or busting out your best hip-hop moves. It's pleasantly off-beat and the drink prices are a tad lower than the usual Frankfurt Nachtklub.

A former New York resident, Balalaika's owner, Anita, was singing long before many of her customers were born, as one of the pace-setters in the jazz and blues scene in the swinging 60s. These days she sings a more mellow song in her tiny, candlelit pub that has the usual cheer of the local taverns but with a more intimate vibe.

This post-modern, pulsating membrane-like miracle is the home of techno legend Sven Väth; it throbs with music from the man himself or his guests Fridays and Saturdays. Lit up by a 100m (330ft) wide, 360º screen, the main dance floor will transform even the most jaded techno moths. During the week you can relax at the more intimate 'micro', a mini version of the larger club, which also houses a restaurant.

The only thing this isn't is a hotel - it's a restaurant, a bar and a nightclub all rolled into one. It's mainly a guys' place, but many lesbians also come here. The compendium of cocktails is killer. Check out the wonderful conservatory/patio out the back.

It pays to move off the beaten track when you discover a fashion boutique of this quality. Speaking of paying, it stocks international designers such as Yohji Yamamito, Helmut Lang and Ann Demeulemeester, as well as Stone Island, Jil Sander and Dolce & Gabbana. No wonder CQ and Vogue dropped in for a closer look.

Goethestrasse neighbours Cartier and Tiffany take care of the classics, allowing upstarts like this to spread their wings with experimental jewellery. A fortunate product of Frankfurt's talented young jewellery scene, its patented Charlotte and Tipin ranges cleverly include replaceable bits to create not one but several decorative pieces.

You could almost mistake the old lady who runs this shop full of wacky beer mugs for one of the items on sale. Some of the pitchers stand over 1m (3.28ft) tall, a gift that would make many a man happy. This is a treasure trove of traditional pottery, and a definite port of call if you need a quirky gift.

Berger Strasse is the spinal cord of the district of Bornheim, the traditional working class part of town. These days, it prefers the label 'bohemian', an image it measures up to well with its mix of dusty bookstores, eccentric boutiques, health food shops and inexpensive cafes and restaurants. Towards the north, the feel gets more mainstream with chain stores and snack bars.

Deutsches Filmmuseum is a fascinating place. It has a library and film history exhibit, constantly changing exhibitions and extensive archives, plus premieres and special film events (all in their original languages) in the Kommunales Kino; check the programme in any listings magazine .

The Deutsches Architekturmuseum is something of a disappointment: the permanent collection is just a series of models showing settlements from the Stone Age to the present day, and the rotating exhibits tend to fail on their English translations. Without a single display on the architecture of Frankfurt itself, this is really a missed opportunity.

Anyone with an interest in German literature should visit the Goethe Haus, the birthplace of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe in 1749. Although furnishings are often reproductions, some original pieces remain on show. Highlights are Goethe's original writing desk and the library. Guided tours are conducted in German at 14:00 and 16:00; English tours can be arranged, but staff can also help you along.

A string of museums lines the southern bank of the Main River, also known as Museum Embankment. The pick of the crop is the Städelsches Kunstinstitut. It holds a world-class collection of works by various artists including Botticelli, Dürer, Van Eyck, Rembrandt, Renoir, Rubens, Vermeer and Cézanne, plus Frankfurt natives such as Hans Holbein.

The old city Börse (Stock Exchange) is open to visitors, who can view a semi-active trading floor from an observation section. Book at least an hour in advance, and bring ID with you. Most of the Börse's functions and electronic trading systems have moved to new headquarters in the northwestern suburb of Frankfurt-Hausen.

Germany's largest natural history museum also happens to be Frankfurt's busiest and a particular favourite with young folk. With an atmosphere that's a little raucous by museum standards, the exhibits from the mummified cats to the anaconda swallowing a water boar are the instigators of excited chatter. As far as dinosaur bone exhibits go, this is a great collection.

The triangular Museum für Moderne Kunst, dubbed the 'slice of cake' by locals, is an excellent and imaginatively run exhibition space with a permanent collection containing works by Roy Lichtenstein, Claes Oldenburg and Joseph Beuys. Temporary exhibits showcase local, national and international artists.