Things to See in Naples

Simple, vast and severe, the bare Gothic interior you see today is not the genuine 14th-century article, but a brilliant recreation. Commissioned by Robert of Anjou, this hulking complex was built to house 200 monks and the Angevin royal family's tombs. Adhering to Gothic principles of the day, which equated height with vicinity to God, the original design met with a mixed reaction. Four centuries later, it was given a luscious baroque makeover.

Former downtown royal pad, this large palace was built around 1600. Envisaged as a monument to Spanish glory (Naples was under Spanish rule at the time), it was designed by local architect Domenico Fontana and completed two long centuries later in 1841.

A double staircase leads to the royal apartments which house the Museo del Palazzo Reale, a rich and eclectic collection of baroque and neoclassical furnishings, porcelain, statues and paintings.

Every year in May, September and December thousands gather in the Duomo to pray for a miracle - that the blood of the city's patron saint San Gennaro, kept here in two phials, will liquefy and save Naples from any potential disaster. When the miracle failed to occur in 1944, Vesuvius erupted. When it failed in 1980, the city was hit by a devastating earthquake.

Rudely giving its back to the Piazza, this vast Gothic number features a double flight of marble steps leading up to the apse. Completed in 1324 on the orders of Charles I of Anjou, it was built onto the medieval church of San Michele Arcangelo as the royal church of the Angevins.

Even if the idea of an archaeology museum usually sends you to sleep, this place will amaze you. With many of the best finds from Pompeii and Herculaneum on display, as well as hundreds of classical sculptures and a trove of ancient Roman porn, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale is world museum heavyweight. You could easily spend a couple of days exploring the museum, although it is possible to do an abridged tour in a morning.

A student hot spot, with tables spilling onto the square and a pop painting of San Gennaro above the DJ deck. Monday to Saturday, punters bop to pop, electronica and world beats. Sunday features live blues, folk and jazz.

Italy's largest opera house, the opulent Teatro San Carlo is one of the world's premier venues. A six-tier arena in classical gold and red, it can seat up to 1000 people. The year-round programme is largely traditional; works by Wagner, Tchaikovsky and Verdi are reliable crowd pleasers. The theatre also showcases dance performances by its in-house ballet company.

Literary types head here to sip espresso, talk Baudelaire and tap their fingers to Chet Baker. Close to Piazza Bellini, this erudite cafe also hosts poetry readings and occasional jazz performances. Turtleneck sweaters are optional.

Bellini sets the scene for lurve, with its candlelit terrace, cobbled streetscape and vintage cummerbund waiters. Get acquainted with just-caught fish or tuck into obscenely copious bowls of pasta - the linguine ai frutti di mare (pasta with fresh seafood) is heroic.

The grand Gambrinus is Naples' oldest and most venerable cafe. Oscar Wilde knocked back a few here and Mussolini had some of the rooms shut down to keep out left-wing intellectuals. It's now suitably decked out in marble, antiques and the odd mock-Grecian statue, and the snooty staff serve pricey coffees, cocktails and snacks to golden-skinned posers and smitten out-of-towners.

Lattes and literature live side by side at this free-thinking cafe/bookshop/publishing house. It's a hit with the left-leaning and artistically inclined, who feed their souls on the misto di formaggi (mixed cheese platter) and fruit salad with honey and muesli. The house wine costs around 4.00 a glass.