Things to See in Rome

Trevi Fountain
Quirinale Piazza di Trevi Via del Tritone

Rome's largest and most famous fountain, Fontana di Trevi was completed by Nicola Salvi in 1762, and immortalised by Marcello Mastroianni and a frolicking Anita Ekberg in Fellini's La Dolce Vita.

This extravagant baroque work takes up most of the piazza, appears to meld into the palazzo, and depicts Neptune's chariot being led by Tritons with seahorses - one wild, one docile - representing the moods of the sea.

Trastevere
Trastevere

Although its traditionally proletarian nature is changing as the crumbling palazzi become gentrified, a stroll among the labyrinthine alleys of Trastevere still reaps small gems of a bygone past. Washing strung out from the apartments in best Mama-leone tradition has everyone sighing and reaching for the Kodaks.

Museo e Galleria Borghese
Flaminio Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5

This 'queen of all private collections' was formed by Cardinal Scipione Borghese, the most passionate and knowledgeable art collector of his day. The collection - including works by Caravaggio, Bernini, Botticelli and Raphael - and the mansion were acquired by the Italian state in 1902; a lengthy restoration took place in the 1990s.

Colosseum
Piazza del Colosseo Campitelli

Of all the monuments in Rome, the Colosseum thrills the most. It was here that gladiators met in mortal combat and condemned prisoners fought off hungry lions. This great symbol of eternal Rome still excites the imagination as you'll see from the hordes waiting to get in.

Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano
Esquiline Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 4

A huge white landmark, this monumental cathedral was founded by Constantine in 313 and consecrated 11 years later. It was the first Christian basilica to be built in the Rome and, until the late 14th century, was the pope's principal residence. The Vatican still has extraterritorial authority over it, despite it being Rome's official cathedral and the Pope's seat as Bishop of Rome.

Roman Forum
Piazza Santa Maria Nova 53 & Via di Monte Tarpeo Campitelli entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6, Piazza di Santa Maria Nova 53 & Via di Monte Tarpeo

Built over the course of 900 years, the Roman Forum (Foro Romano) was the commercial, political and religious centre of ancient Rome from the Republican era until the 4th century AD. During medieval times the area was used to graze cattle and it was plundered for its precious marble.

Pantheon
Piazza della Rotonda Pigna

Marcus Agrippa's Pantheon is one of the world's most sublime architectural creations: a perfectly proportioned floating dome resting on an elegant drum of columns and pediments. Built in 27 BC, and rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian in 120 AD, it is one of Rome's best-preserved ancient monuments. Its extraordinary dome is the largest masonry vault ever built.

Capuchin Cemetery
Sallustiano Via Vittorio Veneto 27

Long after memories of all the rest of Rome's interiors run together in an opulent blur, visitors vividly recall the particulars of the bizarre and macabre chapels of this cemetery, where the decorative elements - from the picture frames to the light fittings - are all made of human bones.

Pincio Hill
Campo Marzio Pincio

The view of St Peter's from the Pincio just has to be seen to be believed. This elegant park with its avenues of shady trees gets its name from the Pinci famaily, who owned it in the 4th century. It's a popular place for a weekend passagiata.

Castel Sant'Angelo
Lungotevere Castello 50 Borgo

With its chunky round keep, this castle is an instantly recognisable landmark. Begun by Emperor Hadrian in 128 AD as a mausoleum for himself and his family, it was converted into a fortress for the popes in the 6th century AD. It was named by Pope Gregory the Great in AD 590, after he saw a vision of an angel above the structure heralding the end of a plague in Rome.

Freni e Frizioni
Via del Politeanna 4 Trastevere

One of Rome's coolest bars, Freni e Frizioni (meaning 'brakes and clutches' - the venue was once a garage) is close to the Tiber. It's run by the same people as equally hip Société Lucète . Inside mixes vintage furniture and modern art, outside happening crowds fill the entire little piazza at night. Drinks are reasonable and aperitivo a bargain (beers/cocktails cost around 5/around 7 from 19:30 to 22:30).

Bar della Pace
Via della Pace 5 Parione

People looking for images of la dolce vita would be hard pushed to find a better picture than the Bar della Pace. Sharp-dressed urbanites sip on their drinks, while behind them ivy cascades down the facade of the Art Nouveau cafe. It's not cheap, but as a place for an early-evening aperitivo in summer or a leisurely nightcap in winter, it takes some beating.

Il Nolano
Campo de' Fiori 11 Centro Storico Campo De' Fiori

Taking its name from Giordano Bruno da Nola, the hooded monk-Obiwan lookalike in the centre of the campo (field), Il Nolano is a refined little arty wine bar with peeling paint, rickety tables, and old wooden cinema seats. It's often used for art exhibitions and book presentations.

Alien
Via Velletri 13 Salario

Pure disco, Alien constantly changes its look to keep up with the newest fads. In its latest apparition it's lounge minimalist - flat maxi-screens on the walls, black leather sofas and satinised steel - and the music is house. Theme nights range from fetish to revival and there are also gay nights.

Bohemien
Via degli Zingari 36 Monti

This elegant little bar feels like something you might stumble on in left-bank Paris: small, with mismatched chairs and tables and an eclectic, fittingly boho crowd drinking wine by the glass or cups of tea. It's gay but attracts all types.

Stardust Live Jazz Bar
Trastevere Vicolo dei Renzi 4

A well-known Trastevere watering hole, Stardust is loved for its smoky jazz atmosphere. There's often live music and the bar staff are equally happy playing Rossini as they are Louis Armstrong. It's open in the afternoon for tea and serves snacks in the early evening but the real buzz kicks in later on. On weekends there's brunch with bagels and American coffee.

Baronato Quattro Bellezze
Centro Storico Via di Panico 23

Tucked away between Via dei Coronari and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Baronato is a quirky little find. Late on Thursday nights, drag-queen owner Dominot likes to treat patrons to a few dazzling Piaf renditions to piano accompaniment. A mainly Tunisian menu will sustain you through your cocktail tipples. Reserve a table for the Piaf show.

Le Coppelle
Piazza del Coppelle 53 Centro Storico near the Pantheon

Pose at Le Coppelle and partake in some 21st-century dolce vita. The recently refurbished bar has partially taken over the pretty piazza as its salon, with leopard-skin chairs and lipstick-red sofas on which to recline, watch the beautiful and the damned, and drink a cocktail (around 10).

Trimani
Via Cernaia 37b Castro Pretorio

Part of the Trimani family's wine empire - their shop just round the corner stocks about 4000 international labels - this is a great, unpretentious place. Always bustling, it's Rome's biggest wine bar and has a vast selection of Italian regional wines as well as a small food menu. Book ahead to take one of the regular wine-tasting courses.

L'Angolo Divino
Via dei Balestrari 12 Sant' Angelo

A hop and a skip from the busy campo, this corner vini e olio shop (wine and oil cellar) is an oasis of genteel calm, with an ample wine list and a select menu (dishes around 8.50 to around 14.50). A charming place with wooden beams and terracotta floors, and on the go since 1946, it's great for a quiet glass of wine, a nibble of cheese or a light meal.

UK Embassy
Via XX Settembre 80a Salario

Netgate
Piazza del Rovere Trastavere

New Internet Point
Piazza Sonnino 27 Trastevere

French Consulate
Piazza Farnese Regola

US Embassy
Via Vittorio Veneto 119a-121 Sallustiano

Circolo Mario Mieli di Cultura Omosessuale
Via Efeso 2A Ostiense

Rome's main gay and lesbian organisation.

Main Post Office
Piazza San Silvestro 18-20 Colonna

Ospedale Nuova Regina Margherita
Via Morosini 30 Trastevere

Executive Services Business Centres
Via Savoia 78 Salario

Australian Embassy
Via Alessandria 215 Salario

Spazio Sette
Centro Storico Via dei Barbieri 7 near Pantheon

Even if you don't buy any of the designer homewares at Spazio Sette, it's worth popping in to see the funky modern furniture set against 17th-century frescoes. Formerly home to a cardinal, the palazzo (mansion) now houses a three-floor shop full of quality furniture, kitchenware, tableware and gifts.

Alinari
near Piazza di Spagna Via Alibert 16a Campo Marzio

This is the oldest photographic business in the world. The Florentine Alinari brothers founded their enterprise in 1852, and produced more than one million plate-glass negatives in their lifetime. Here you can buy beautiful prints of their work depicting Rome in the 19th century, as well as some meaty coffee table books on photography.

Animalier e Oltre
Via Margutta 47 Campo Marzio near Piazza Di Spagna

Like the attic of an eccentric, bohemian, aristocratic family, this shop is full of bric-a-brac, curios, antiques and furniture. Wrought-iron furniture and leather sofas sit alongside a mammoth selection of animal-shaped antiques - obviously one family member had an obsessive streak - that includes reproductions of 19th-century French animalier sculptures.

Valentino
Via dei Condotti 13 Colonna near Via Del Corso

King of Roman fashion, Valentino made his name dressing names like Sophia Loren and Audrey Hepburn and reached his peak in the 70s. Here you'll find his slightly more affordable range, aimed at a younger market than his couture collections - the latter, featuring superb evening gowns, have always been inaccessible to all but the most wealthy customers.

Bertè
Piazza Navona 107-111 Sant' Eustachio

On Piazza Navona, this famous toy shop specialises in beautifully sculpted wooden dolls and puppets, but has a great mishmash of other stuff, from tractors to pushchairs and doll houses to tea sets. Good for a pre-/post-sightseeing bribe/reward.

Ai Monasteri
near Piazza Navona Corso del Rinascimento 72 Sant' Eustachio

So this is how monks pay the rent. This apothecary-like, wonderfully scented shop sells herbal essences, spirits, soaps, balms, deodorants, antiwrinkle creams, bubble bath and liqueurs, all created by monks and beautifully packaged with the sense of another era. Even the propolis is made from holy bees. To boost your love life try the Elixir d'Amore (Elixir of Love), though quite why monks are expert at this is anyone's guess.

Furla
near Piazza Di Spagna Campo Marzio Piazza di Spagna 22

Furla makes all sorts of accessories, from sunglasses to shoes, but is best known for its handbags. Practical, chic, classic and affordable, they use a brilliant array of colours and finishes to add sparkle to their simple designs. If you can't afford Fendi, head here. The many other branches include Via Tomacelli 136 (06 687 82 30), Via Nazionale 54-55 (06 487 01 27), and Via Cola di Rienzo 226 (06 687 45 05).

Loco
Via dei Baullari 22 Centro Storico near Campo De' Fiori

Shoe fetishists should hotfoot it to Loco. More a trendsetter than fashion follower, it's small but big in attitude, with an interesting mix of original shoes by international and Italian designers.

Bulgari
Via dei Condotti 10 Colonna

If you have to ask the price, you can't afford it. Luckily, the sumptuous window displays mean you can admire the world's finest jewellery without spending a centesimo.

Nardecchia
Piazza Navona 25 Parione

The enchanting antique prints sold at Nardecchia, a venerable institution on Piazza Navona, range from expensive 18th-century etchings of Rome by Giovanni Battista Piranesi to more affordable 19th-century panoramas.

Hotel Joli
Prati from Piazza del Risorgimento, take Via Cola di Rienzo until just after Piazza dell'Unita Via Cola di Rienzo 243

Six floors above busy Via Cola di Rienzo, Hotel Joli is just that. It's family-run, laid-back, a little tatty round the edges and popular. But what it's not is luxurious. Some of the modest rooms have ceiling fans, others have shower curtains and a few even have both.

Hotel Panda
Campo Marzio from Piazza di Spagna, head down Via della Croce for 3 blocks; pensione is on left Via della Croce 35

A budget bolthole just down from the Spanish Steps, the Panda is a long-standing favourite. Its superb central position, decent rooms and honest rates ensure a year-round stream of travellers. There are few frills but rooms are comfortable enough and the welcome is friendly.

Hotel & Hostel Des Artistes
Castro Pretorio just N of Termini from Castro Pretorio metro station, head SW down Via San Martino della Battaglia, then left down Via Villafranca Via Villafranca 20

With a multitude of sleeping options, Des Artistes has a room for everyone. Hostel-goers can choose between plush, carpeted rooms near the 5th-floor reception or more basic dorms on the 2nd floor. On the intervening floors, hotel rooms feature polished wood and modern trappings such as satellite TV and modem points.

Hotel Dolomiti
Castro Pretorio from Castro Pretorio metro station, head down Via San Martino della Battaglia for just over a block Via San Martino della Battaglia 11

A warm, family-run hotel, the Dolomiti is a reliable choice. Housed in a large, six-storey palazzo, it offers comfortable, airy rooms, attractive bathrooms and very reasonable prices. Facilities are limited, but there's internet access (free for 10 minutes), wi-fi and satellite TV.

Casa Howard
Via Capo le Case 18 & Via Sistina 149 Campo Marzio from Piazza di Spagna, take Via dei Due Macelli until Via Capo le Case; for Via Sistina, climb the Spanish Steps and head downhill from the Hassler Hotel

A masterclass in interior design, Casa Howard (Howard's End) is a treat. Its 10 rooms, split between two houses, reveal a wealth of styles, ranging from full-on floral chintz to kitsch retro and oriental chic. Both sites are central, both have a hammam bath, and both provide superb breakfasts.

Hotel Giuliana
Esquilino from Piazza dei Cinquecento, take Via Enrico de Nicola SW past Palazzo Massimo alle Terme; go down Via del Viminale; Via Agostino Depretis is opposite Piazza del Viminale Via Agostino Depretis 70

A cosy little hotel run by a jolly Londoner and her daughter, the Giuliana ticks all the right boxes. Its comfortable rooms are elegant without being stuffy; the location, near Via Nazionale, is convenient; and the service is affable and efficient.

Hotel Locarno
Campo Marzio from Piazza del Popolo take Via di Ripetta, turn right down Via dell'Oca (extension of Via della Penna) and walk about 200m (660ft) Via della Penna 22

With its ivy-clad exterior, stained-glass doors, and rattling cage lift, the Locarno is an Art Deco classic. The elegant, individually decorated rooms are spread over two sites - the main building and, over the road, the Anahi complex. Topping everything is a lovely roof garden, the ideal retreat for an evening cocktail.

Hotel Adriatic
Via Vitelleschi 25 Vatican City

About five minutes' walk from St Peter's Basilica, the Adriatic offers decent, midrange rooms. The décor is fairly insipid with faux-antique furniture and blue carpets but they're a reasonable size and right for the price. Upstairs, the small terrace is a good spot for a quiet breather. Note that air-con costs around 10 per day.

Gregoriana
Campo Marzio Via Gregoriana 18 from Piazza di Spagna, go up stairs; with the Hassler Hotel in front of you, turn right into Via Gregoriana

Eschewing the limelight, this charming hotel offers stylish Art Deco rooms and friendly, unpretentious service. Polished wood predominates in the guestrooms with circular bedsteads made of maple and evocative rosewood furniture. Unusually none of the rooms are numbered but are adorned with letters by the 1930s French illustrator Erté.

Hotel Bramante
Borgo from Piazza del Risorgimento follow Via di Porta Angelica; just before the Vatican walls turn right into Borgo Pio; Vicolo delle Palline is an alleyway on right Vicolo delle Palline 24

The pick of the Vatican hotels, the Bramante is a model of effortless elegance. Tucked away in a side street behind St Peter's, it occupies the 16th-century building that was home to Swiss architect Domenico Fontana in 1575. Five centuries later and the original wood-beamed ceilings top rooms furnished with considerable style.

Pizzeria da Baffetto
Via del Governo Vecchio 114 Parione nr Piazza Navona

Once a meeting point for '60s radicals and now a raucous pizzeria beloved by loud locals and less-loud tourists, Da Baffetto offers the full-on wham-bam Roman pizza experience. To partake, join the queue and wait for the bustling waiters to squeeze you into whatever table space is available. The pizzas are the thin-crust Roman variety, served bubbling hot from the wood-fired oven. Expect to be hurried on your way once you've finished.

Enoteca Corsi
Via del Gesu 87 Centro Storico nr Pantheon

Merrily worse for wear, family-run Corsi is a genuine old-style Roman eatery. The look is rustic - bare wooden tables, paper tablecloths, lined with wine bottles - and the atmosphere one of controlled mayhem. The menu, chalked up on a blackboard, contains homely dishes using good, fresh ingredients, such as cacio e pepe (pasta with pecorino and ground black pepper) or pasta e ceci (pasta with chickpeas).

La Rosetta
Via della Rosetta 8-9 Centro Storico nr Pantheon

La Rosetta is so excellent that it doesn't have to be overly formal. Some say this is Rome's best fish restaurant; others say it's the best in Italy. Chef Massimo Riccioli's dishes are often startlingly simple - cuttlefish with lemon and olive oil or linguine ai frutti di mare (flat spaghetti with seafood) - but they're prepared with genius. He can also innovate, as his moscardini (baby octopus) with mint shows. Bookings are essential.

Ditirambo
Piazza della Cancelleria 74 Regola nr Campo De' Fiori

Ditirambo is a recommended, convivial, new-wave trattoria. The interior looks like a regular, if upmarket, neighbourhood place, but the innovative cooking takes risks (mainly hits, with the occasional miss). Ingredients are organic and seasonal and there are an unusual number of vegetarian options. Try the delicate antipasti, such as ricotta with marinated artichokes. Be sure to book.

Renato e Luisa
Via dei Barbieri 25 Centro Storico nr Campo De' Fiori

A favourite among vivacious young Romans, this backstreet new-style trattoria is always busy. The cooking is more complex than the norm, with a buttery French twist. Try dishes such as the delicious goat's cheese and honey starter. Service can be haphazard.

Sora Margherita
Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30 Sant'Angelo Jewish Ghetto

Rough-and-ready Sora Margherita started as a cheap kitchen for hungry locals, but word has spread. Expect dog-eat-dog queues; cheap, hearty pasta; Roman and Jewish dishes slapped down on Formica table tops; and a rowdy Roman atmosphere. Service is prompt and you're expected to be likewise. It's closed weekends in summer as, according to the sign, 'tutti al mare' (everyone's at the beach).

Agustarello
Via Giovanni Branca 98 Testaccio

Old-timer Agustarello hides its in-the-know hubbub behind frosted glass. Inside, plain and simple, is thoroughly Roman, from the clientele to the food. It serves mostly offal, specialising in sweetbreads and oxtail, but if innards aren't your thing, you'll still eat splendidly here (though veggies may want to give it a miss).

Papa Baccus
Via Toscana 36 Trevi

To breed your own hogs to ensure a ready supply of quality meat requires a passion verging on obsession. But it's exactly what the owner of this refined Tuscan restaurant does. Meat rules here, with pride of place going to the succulent Chianina beef, but there's plenty else besides, including panzanella (a summery starter of bread with salad, herbs and oil). Reservations are preferred, and you can sit outside on the quiet cobbled street.

Il Bacaro
Via degli Spagnoli 27 Colonna nr Pantheon

You'll have to book, as Il Bacaro is the size of a postage stamp and always busy. It might be small but it's perfectly formed: the primi (first courses) are imaginative - try spaghetti con gamberi, porcini, pecorino e tartufo (spaghetti with prawns, porcini mushrooms, cheese and truffles) - the meat dishes are beefy and the wine list is well chosen. Summer seating spills out under a vine-covered pergola.

Da Lucia
Trastevere Vicolo del Mattonato 2 W of Viale di Trastevere

Eat beneath the fluttering knickers of the neighbourhood at this terrific trattoria, frequented by hungry locals and tourists. On a cobbled backstreet that is classic Trastevere, it serves up a cavalcade of Roman specialities including trippa all romana (tripe with tomato sauce) and pollo con peperoni (chicken with capsicum), as well as bountiful antipasti.