Jamaica's northwestern node is the thriving port city of MoBay. This is resort Jamaica at its purest and most puerile, where a crowded tourist mishmash of one-way streets full of honking cars and pedestrians almost obscures the reasons people come.
These reasons include scintillating beaches, golf courses, historic houses and the mountain-village life going on behind the narrow coastal strip. Despite MoBay's reputation as a hustlers' city, there are attractions that make it worth being asked 'Hey, Jake! Smoke? Coke?' every few steps.
Jamaica's teeming capital city suffers from a negative image that, though partly deserved, belies its charms. At first neither welcoming nor beautiful, the city is diminished by squalor, and its culture can be darned right intimidating. Seething tensions simmer below the surface and often boil over.
But although there are places visitors are advised to steer well clear of, Kingston is the vibrant heartbeat of Jamaica, and its center of commerce and culture. It hustles, it bustles, and it merits a visit, especially during one of the annual festivals.