Things to See in Kyoto

Nij Jinya is one of Kyoto's hidden gems. Seldom seen by short-term visitors, it was built as a merchant's home in the mid-1600s and served as an inn for provincial feudal lords visiting the capital. What appears to be an average Edo-period mansion, however, is no ordinary dwelling.

The Kyoto Gosho is surrounded by the spacious Imperial Palace Park, which is planted with a huge variety of flowering trees and open fields. It's perfect for picnics, strolls and just about any sport you can think of. Take some time to visit the pond at the park's southern end, which contains gorgeous carp.

Built in 1641, this house is one of the last remaining ageya in Shimabara, Kyoto's original pleasure quarters, and is now designated as a National Cultural Asset. With a delicate lattice-work exterior and an extensive series of 20 rooms (including one inlaid with mother-of-pearl), the stately Sumiya allows a rare glimpse into Edo-era nirvana.

The Nanzen-ji Temple is one of Kyoto's most pleasant temples, with expansive grounds and numerous sub-temples. It began as a retirement villa for Emperor Kameyama but was dedicated as a Zen temple on his death in 1291. Civil war in the 15th century destroyed most of it; the present buildings date from the 17th century.

If you're interested in seeing all the weird and wonderful foods required for cooking in Kyoto, wander through Nishiki-kji, Kyoto's best full-time market. This is a great place to visit on a rainy day or as a break from temple-hopping. The variety of foods on display is staggering, and the frequent cries of Irasshiamase! (Welcome!) are heart-warming.

This is a good place to try unagi (eel), that most sublime of Japanese dishes. You can sit downstairs with a nice view of the waterfall or upstairs on the tatami. The kane-yo donburi (eel over rice) set is great value. Look for the barrels of live eels outside and the wooden facade.

This is Kyoto's most famous beef restaurant. It serves excellent sukiyaki and shabu-shabu in traditional tatami rooms, some overlooking the Kamo-gawa. The meat comes from the restaurant's own farm. Reservations are essential.

Located on one of the most beautiful streets in Gion, this charming little restaurant offers excellent tempura in refined surroundings. Unless you choose a private tatami room, you'll sit at the counter and watch as the chef prepares each piece of tempura individually before your eyes. Considering the location and the quality of the food, it's great value.

Tadg's is our favourite bar in Kyoto. It's a delightfully convivial spot which plays host to a good crowd of expats and Japanese every night of the week. This is an easy spot for solo travellers to enter - you'll soon be drawn into the conversation. Some evenings there are open-mike nights and live Irish music.

Gion Corner presents a sort of crash course in Japanese traditional arts. You get a chance to see snippets of the tea ceremony, Kyoto music, flower arrangement, gagaku (court music), kygen (ancient comic plays), Kymai (Kyoto-style dance) and bunraku (puppet plays). The shows are touristy affairs and may not satisfy the more discerning traveller.

This is the oldest kabuki (traditional Japanese drama) theatre in Japan. The major event of the year is the Kao-mise Festival (1-26 December), which features Japan's finest kabuki actors. Other performances take place on an irregular basis. Those interested should check with the TIC. The most likely months for performances are May, June and September.