An admittedly unlovely urban expanse of unsigned boulevards and uninspired modern monoliths, Managua is beloved with a proud ferocity by its 1.4 million inhabitants. Though not super-popular with travelers, its volcanic skyline and cosmopolitan charms have inspired a library's worth of poems.
Nicaragua's capital is spread across the southern shore of Lago de Managua and is crowded with more than a quarter of the country's population. Its history is racked with natural disasters, including two earthquakes last century; thanks to the devastating 1972 earthquake, the city has had no center.
León provides what many frustrated visitors look for in Managua: a cultural center with mind-blowing churches, thriving universities, fabulous art collections and historic sites. Its colonial architecture may still bear bullet holes from the 1970s, but its appeal is undeniable.
Having been burned to the ground fewer times than its oft-sacked southern adversary, Granada, León is the more authentically Spanish of the two cities. It's also home to the best museums in Nicaragua, and boasts a lively calendar of local cultural and religious festivals.