Most visitors arrive by air, specifically from Australia to Port Moresby, although there are direct connections with Honiara (Solomon Islands) and Nadi (Fiji). Air Niugini, the national airline, operates between Australia and Asia (in conjunction with Singapore Airlines). Port Moresby is the largest international gateway but another international airport has just opened at Alotau (Milne Bay Province). The departure tax is about
Geographical realities - a small and scattered population which is often isolated in mountain valleys and on tiny islands - means flying is a necessity. Unfortunately, it also means it is expensive. The main carrier is Air Niugini, with several small operators touching down at very small airstrips. Bookings are quite reliable as most systems are computerised. If travelling on any of Air Niugini's domestic flights, make sure you check-in an hour in advance, otherwise booked seats will be given to passengers on waiting lists.
The network of roads around the country remains limited, but Public Motor Vehicles (PMVs) are always at your beck and call. Essentially modified Japanese minibuses, PMVs are a cheap form of transport and pick up and drop off people at any point along a pre-established route. Driving a car in the country (left side of the road please) requires a valid overseas licence but be forewarned: tribal paybacks have meant some drivers have been killed by an accident victim's relatives. Some authorities suggest that if you are involved in an accident, keep driving and report the incident at the nearest police station. The major car rental companies (Avis, Budget and Hertz) are found in most main centres but because of the limited road network you won't get too far. Costs are also high.
A good form of transport is boat. Passenger ships, freighters, charters, outboard dingies and canoes are cheap, though sometimes uncomfortable. Probably the best way to travel within PNG is to walk; your only real expense will be paying for guides and porters.