Things to See in Moscow

Stretching almost 3km (1.8mi) along the river, Gorky Park is full of that sometimes rare species - the happy Russian. Officially the 'Park of Culture', named after Maxim Gorky, it's the original Soviet park - part ornamental and educational, part funfair and amusement park, and a good place to escape the hubbub of the city.

Entering Red Sq through the Voskressensky Gates, you'll emerge with a superb view of the magnificently flamboyant St Basil's Cathedral on the far side. Ivan the Terrible was so keen to immortalise his victory over the Tatars at Kazan that he took the measure of blinding the architects after they completed the cathedral's dazzlingly bright onion domes in 1561 to ensure that nothing of comparable beauty could ever be built.

Kuklachev Cats Theatre features a troop of talented felines performing astounding acrobatic feats. The cats dance, walk tightropes, balance balls on their noses, do pawstands, jump from great heights, and unerringly negotiate complex mazes. The theatre is the brainchild of Yuri Kuklachev, a former circus clown.

Founded in 1524 to celebrate the retaking of Smolensk from Lithuania, the Novodevichy Convent (New Convent of the Maidens), gained notoriety as the place where Peter the Great imprisoned his half-sister Sofia for her part in the Streltsy Rebellion. The cemetary, cluster of 16 sparkling domes behind turreted walls, is the resting place of Chekhov, Eisenstein, Gogol, Khrushchev, Kropotkin, Mayakovsky, Prokofiev, Stanislavsky and Shostakovich.

The Sandunovskiye Baths, in the city centre's northern winding streets, is Moscow's most famous bathhouse. The fading but grand 19th-century baths are a mixture of sauna and social club, with sexes strictly segregated. For hours you can move between steam rooms and pools, interspersed with massages and twig whippings.

Moscow's premier foreign art museum is a short distance from the southwestern corner of the Kremlin. The Pushkin Fine Arts Museum is famous for its impressionist and postimpressionist paintings, but also has a broad selection of European works from the Renaissance onward, mostly appropriated from private collections after the revolution. There are also interesting temporary exhibits on regular display.

The stronghold of Russian political power, the Kremlin occupies a roughly triangular plot of land covering little Borovitsky Hill on the north bank of the Moscow River, probably first settled in the 11th century. Today it's enclosed by high walls. Red Square lies outside the east wall.

Whether for the creepiness value or an interest in mummification, the granite tomb of Lenin is a must-see, especially since (if some people get their way) the former leader may eventually end up beside his mum in St Petersburg. For now, the embalmed leader remains as he has been since 1924 (apart from a retreat to Siberia during WWII).

The 19th-century neoclassical edifice of the Hotel Budapest is an unusually affordable retreat in this swanky shopping district. Service is pleasant and professional, attracting repeat customers, who enjoy staying at this prime location for a relatively reasonable price.

Nikitskaya offers a rare combination: superb location, reasonable prices and Russian charm (is that last one an oxymoron?). While the building and rooms are freshly renovated, it preserves an anachronistic atmosphere, with heavy floral drapes and linens - all very cosy, comfortable and classic.

Located on the loveliest stretch of the Boulevard Ring, this small hotel evokes the atmosphere of the 19th-century mansion it once was. It is a kitschy but charming place with 26 individually decorated rooms and a lovely fountain-filled courtyard.

The foreign health services such as the American Medical Center offer Western standards of treatment, but they are very expensive and can be fiscally ruinous without valid medical insurance coverage. The American Medical Center offers 24-hour emergency services, consultations, a full range of specialists and an English-speaking pharmacy.

The Foreign Literature Library is home to several international libraries and cultural centres, including the American Cultural Center Library, the French Cultural Centre, and the British Council Resource Centre. Take your passport.

This slick bar on the Boulevard Ring is somewhere to see and be seen in Moscow. If you can snag a seat in the attached 'sun room' seating area, you will enjoy a lovely view of the boulevard promenade. Good luck, as the place gets packed on weekends.

A great venue for international bands (indie and rock mainly) with a cosy interior complete with pool table and fireplace.

Tucked away in the western back streets of the city is Moscow's hot spot for serious dancing. The exotic international theme includes local DJs, live music (rock and Latin), salsa lessons on Tuesday nights, carnivals, theme nights and an Arabian-style chill-out room. All nights fill with regulars so be early to skip the queue.

Sadly the main Bolshoi Theatre is closed for renovation until the end of 2008. In the meantime performances are held in the building next door. Unless you specifically want to see the Bolshoi troupe, consider going to the ballet in St Petersburg instead. Tickets are available online and through travel agencies at a premium, although the kiosks around the city (teatralnaya kassa) often offer some good bargains.

A worldly mix of Asian food, Latin music and Russian fun. Thursday nights usually feature live music, while the other nights are for DJs and dancing (free lessons Friday to Saturday from 21:00-23:00). Add to the mix happy hours and hookah pipes, and you've got one of Moscow's top expat clubs.

This upmarket boutique and cafe is choc-full of mouth-watering chocolates in every shape and size imaginable. Besides the boxes of truffles and chocolate-covered cherries, Confael also stocks themed chocolates related to holidays, hobbies and national events. Sample the goods in the attached cafe.

This sprawling area is packed with art, handmade crafts, antiques, Soviet paraphernalia and just about anything you might want for a souvenir. You'll find Moscow's biggest original range of matrioshkas (Russian dolls), Palekh and Khokhloma ware, as well as less traditional woodworking crafts.

On the eastern side of Red Square, the GUM (Gosudarstvenny Univermag) has made the transition to a market economy in fine form: the 19th-century building is a sight in itself. It's often called a 'department store', but that's a misnomer as it's really a huge collection of individual, upscale shops spread over several floors.

Khodzha Nasreddin is an Uzbek literary folk hero who epitomises the exoticism and eroticism of the mystical East. The restaurant attempts to do the same. Dine upstairs and you will be invited to remove your shoes and recline on plush pillows around low tables. The house specialty is undoubtedly the plov (pilaf rice with diced mutton and vegetables).

Moscow is the best place outside the Caucasus to sample the rich, spicy cuisine of the former Soviet republic of Georgia. And Tiflis is the best place in Moscow. The name comes from the Russian word for the Georgian capital, Tblisi, and when you enter this restaurant, you might think you are there.

Fondue, fromage plates, and other cheesy specialties are the highlights of the menu at this hole-in-the-wall. Besides the warm basement with windows looking onto the Boulevard Ring, there is also a summer terrace in the back. Both are perfectly delightful settings for a romantic date or even a solo meal.

Moo-Moo offers a serve-yourself, cafeteria-style approach to Russian standards such as borscht, pelmeni and violently-coloured desserts. Moo-Moo has a lively atmosphere and is also a reliable choice for non-Russian speakers. Dig that spotted-cow decor, in case you were wondering where the subtle name came from.

The acronym stands for Tsentralny Dom Literatov, or Central House of Writers, which is the historic building housing this fancy restaurant. A glittery chandelier above, plush carpets under foot and rich oak panelling all around create a sumptuous setting for an old-fashioned Russian feast.