Things to See in St Petersburg

This splendid collection was begun in 1878 by Baron Stieglitz, who wanted to surround students of his School of Technical Design with inspirational works of art. The objects on display are breathtaking, from medieval handcrafted furniture to a rare collection of Russian tiled stoves, and works by the school's students.

Pl Pobedy (Victory Sq) is one of the first sights of the city that visitors see on the road from the airport to the city centre, making a deeply Soviet impression for a town as imperial as St Petersburg! The square now houses the vast Monument to the Heroic Defenders of Leningrad, which is the city's most moving monument. The front line was only 9km from this spot.

The vast golden dome dominating the St Petersburg skyline is the neo-classical St Isaac's Cathedral. French designer Ricard de Montferrand kick-started proceedings in 1818, but construction took so long (the cathedral wasn't finished until 1858) that Nicholas I was able to extend the original designs to include even more extravagance.

Often overlooked by visitors in favour of the Hermitage, the extensive Russian Museum is a must for anyone interested in Russian art and culture. The building is most impressively viewed from the back, during a late-night stroll through the pleasant Mikhailovsky Gardens. The illuminated palace by night is a perfect backdrop for romantic assignations.

This is perhaps St Petersburg's loveliest and oldest park. Laid out for Peter the Great with fountains, pavilions and a geometrical plan to resemble the park at Versailles, it became a stomping ground for 19th-century ladies (and gentlemen) of leisure. Though changed now, its formal elegance remains.

Most European rulers had at least one Versailles, and Peter the Great was no exception. He built a series of palaces on the site now known as Petrodvorets. Fountains play a very large part in its grandeur. Petrodvorets' other charms include the Grand Palace, enlarged for Empress Elizabeth and later remodelled by Catherine.

Atypical of St Petersburg churches, the neoclassical Kazan Cathedral was commissioned by Tsar Paul shortly before he was murdered in a coup. It reflects his eccentric desire to unite Catholicism and Orthodoxy in a kind of 'super-Christianity' as well as his fascination with the Knights of Malta, of which he was a member. The cathedral's great, 111m-long colonnaded arms reach out towards Nevsky pr, encircling a pleasant garden that is studded with statues.

Tiny Zayachy Island contains the oldest building in town - the Peter & Paul Fortress. It was built in 1703 while Peter the Great was still roughing it in a log cabin overlooking his golden embryonic city (the cabin is preserved as a shrine-like museum), and designed according to plans by the man himself.

Apteka Petrofarm is an excellent, all-night pharmacy. After hours, use the side entrance on Bolshaya Konyushennaya ulitsa (under the archway of house No 14 and to the right). Apteka (pharmacies) are located all over the city and most are well stocked with Western medications and toiletries.

The English-speaking staff are vague about most things but will do their best to help. There's also a branch in a glass booth outside the Hermitage.

The best for Western-quality treatment is the US-run American Medical Center, which offers a full range of medical services including gynaecological and paediatric care, dentistry, 24-hour emergency care, ambulance services, house calls and medical evacuations. Prices are stellar.

Most hotels offer a laundry service. Otherwise, there is only one Western-style 'beautiful laundrette' in the city.

During the summer this long-established hostel (in business since 1992), just a short walk northeast of Moscow Station, buzzes with activity. At other times it's quieter, so you might get one of the three to six-bed dorm rooms to yourself. All are plainly furnished with single pine beds and parquet floors.

About a 10-minute walk west of the Mariinsky Theatre and facing the Pryazhka River, this small hotel is fronted by a charming garden with gurgling fountain and pottery gnomes. It's a secure, quiet, and slightly off-beat place to stay, with very pleasant and helpful staff.

The Astoria has been welcoming guests since 1912. What it has lost in original art nouveau decor and fixtures (some aspects of which do survive) it more than compensates for in style and top-notch service. Little wonder it's beloved by VIPs, the roll-call of whom you can read off on the engraved plaques discreetly fixed to the doorframe of the lobby lift.

Pchelovodstvo is the place to find many types of fresh honey from Russia's Rostov region. There are dozens of products, remedies and creams made from bee pollen, as well as unique teas, which make easy-to-pack gifts.

Often referred to simply by its address, Free Arts Foundation is gallery central as far as modern art is concerned. There are lots of different galleries, all with different opening hours spread throughout the complex, but most are open on Saturday. Sometimes the space itself and its denizens are more intriguing than the art.

This famous factory has an outlet shop on site, where you get anything from the company catalogue at prices lower than those in the department stores. You'll also find a branch of the Hermitage here. From the metro, turn left (east), walk under the bridge to the embankment then turn left again - you'll see the factory ahead of you.

The city's only English-language bookshop has a large selection of contemporary literature, history and travel writing. It also hosts small art and photography displays, organises book readings and generally is a cornerstone of expat life in St Petersburg.

Back in the 1990s, Tunnel pioneered techno music in this bastion of old-school rock-and-roll. Closed for several years, the military-themed club reopened in the bomb shelter where it was first born. The setting is spooky but somehow appropriate for the electronica that goes down here.

Griboedov is hands-down the longest-standing and most respected music club in the city. Another club in a bomb shelter, this one was founded by the blokes from the local ska band Dva Samolyota. It's a low-key bar in the early evening, gradually morphing into a rowdy club later in the night. Excellent music acts run the gamut from russky rock to reggae to electronica to trance. Upstairs, Griboedov Hill functions as a cool café by day with occasional concerts by night.

You don't get any more scruffy than this museum of local boho life. Here, in the dark underbelly of Pushkinskaya 10, artists, musicians and wannabes of all ages meet to drink beer and listen to music. Playing table football is also something of a rite of passage for anyone wanting to join the local arts scene. DJs or bands play in the evenings, making this one of the best places to hear punk and other alternative music.

The most celebrated and most spectacular venue for ballet and opera in St Petersburg, the Mariinsky Theatre is an attraction in its own right, whether or not you manage to get tickets to see a performance. Known as the Kirov Ballet during the Soviet era, the dance company confusingly still tours the world under this name, as its Soviet-era association with Nureyev, Baryshnikov et al brings more ticket sales! Despite this odd tie to the past, the current general and artistic director Valery Gergiev has led the venue bravely into the modern world.

The first Indonesian restaurant in Russia has impressed the in-crowd with its stylish ethnic decor and delicious, reasonably authentic fare including plenty of dishes for vegetarians. Their business lunch is a great deal.

Greek-themed photographs and folkloric art bring the requisite Mediterranean atmosphere to this cavernous hall. (The atmosphere is also 'enhanced' by live music, which can be a bit much.) Nonetheless, the place is extremely popular, and with good reason. The traditional Greek cooking is excellent, as attested to the Greek expats who seem to frequent this place. There is also a pleasant sidewalk café which offers a partial menu.

The only Lebanese place in town, this Vasilevsky Island hideaway attracts a large crowd for its excellent-value lunch, as well as a more relaxed evening clientele. Here you'll find delicious mezze, hummus, kibbeh (minced meat with bulgur wheat), tabbouleh, kofta (spicy meatballs of lamb or beef) and of course hookahs and Lebanese wine.

Strangely enough, despite the name this is a British bakery. This branch is located in the Vladimirsky Passage shopping centre, where you can pick up fresh bread, cakes and even ready-made sandwiches on the run. You can take away or eat in the small café area provided.

This place is a St Petersburg institution. A Georgian restaurant coming to you charmingly from Soviet central planning, Kafe Tbilisi remains a beloved institution to many residents of the city, clunky 1970s style and dark decor notwithstanding. Don't miss their khachapuri (cheese bread).

There is more than just bliny on the menu at this long-running favourite. Besides sweet and savoury pancakes of every kind, there are also soups, salads and other snacks. The place is set up like a cosy and welcoming country home. It gets very busy at noon, so come for breakfast or a late lunch.