Novi Sad, once an anonymous name to a Western ear, is fast gaining notoriety as the host of Serbia's biggest music festival, Exit. A quiet town with wide streets, interesting cafés, bars, museums and the mighty Petrovaradin Citadel that dominates the town from the volcanic rock upon which it sits, Novi Sad becomes a young (and old) clubbers' mecca in July when the festival takes over the citadel. A jazz festival is held at various venues in town in November.
The town is definitely worth a day visit and makes a great base for exploring the Fru¨ka Gora monasteries over a weekend, and Exit is highly recommended.
Destroyed 40 times in its 2300-year history, Belgrade has never quite managed to pick up all the pieces and take its place in the European aristocracy. Despite this, the slightly dishevelled air, combined with the city's indefatigable vibrancy lend Belgrade an unpretentious charm and credibility.
Belgrade's bustling centre is the Kneza Mihaila, a cafe-lined pedestrian boulevard that runs northwest through the old town. To its south you'll find the train and bus stations. Belgrade's fort since Celtic times, Kalemegdan Citadel, looms over the old town that was mostly built in the 17th century.