Things to See in Madrid

The wonderful gardens of El Retiro are as enjoyable as any you'll find in a European city. Littered with marble monuments, landscaped lawns, the occasional elegant building and abundant greenery, it's quiet and contemplative during the week, but is transformed on weekends.

Named after Madrid's patron saint, this is where you can see archaeological finds from old Madrid, including mosaic fragments from the Roman villa in Carabanchel (now a southern suburb). The building also has a 16th-century courtyard, a 17th-century chapel and interesting displays based on the history of Madrid.

Converted in 1819 from a natural history museum to a repository of Spanish art held in royal collections, the Museo del Prado hosts over 7000 works. The strongest collections are the 17th- and 18th-century Spanish paintings featuring the likes of Velázquez, Goya and Ribera. It's an artistic feast that is many visitors' main reason for visiting Madrid.

This Italianate Baroque colossus of some 2800 rooms was begun by Felipe V following the destruction by fire of its forerunner, the Alcázar, in 1734. Around 50 rooms are open to visitors, including one taken up by the Farmacia Real, a seemingly endless parade of medicine jars. The Throne Room's a giddy concoction of crimson walls and Tiepolo ceilings.

Founded by royal decree in 1867, this is one mother of a royal collection, with goodies from prehistory, Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome and Mudéjar Spain. Keep an eye out for the sarcophagus of Amemenhat (Room 13), the Lady of Elche (20), Recesvinto's crown (29) and the Aljafería arch (30).

Madrid's imperial heart beats loudest at Plaza Mayor, the town square designed in 1619 by Juan Gómez de Mora. Popular as a site for autos-da-fe (the ritual condemnation of heretics, often followed by burning at the stake), it is now given over to those who fancy an alfresco drink or snack.

The crowded Sunday flea market was, back in the 17th and 18th centuries, largely dedicated to a meat market (the word rastro, which means stain, referred to the trail of blood left behind by animals dragged down the hill). On Sunday mornings, this is the place to be, with all of Madrid in all its diversity here in search of a bargain.

Adapted from the shell of an 18th-century hospital, this museum houses the best Madrid has to offer in modern Spanish art, principally spanning the 20th century up to the 1980s. For most, the big attraction is Picasso's Guernica, but there is plenty else on offer, including Joan Miró, Vassily Kandinsky and Salvador Dalí.

Always wanted to be a torero (bullfighter) but just didn't have a thing to wear? This is where Madrid's toreros come to have their traje de luces (suit of lights, the traditional glittering bullfighting suit) made in all their intricate excess. A custom-made suit starts at around 2500.00 while the sexy pink tights are a far more affordable choice.

Spanish fashion is not all haute couture and this world-famous cool and quirky shoe brand from Mallorca has shops all over Madrid. The designs are bowling-shoe chic with colourful, fun designs that are all about comfort. The Camper range is vast and prices here are far more appealing than on your local high street.

How can you come to Spain and not dive into a little flamenco? This temple to flamenco has it all, from guitars, albums, polka-dotted dancing costumes, shoes, the works. The helpful staff can point you in the direction of Madrid's best tablaos (places that specialise in flamenco) as well.

This beautiful hotel is set on a picturesque plaza and offers simple luxury in rooms that bear the traces of restrained elegance from bygone years. Although the building has had many manifestations, its first was as the 19th-century US embassy in Madrid. Many of the heritage features survive from this period.

They don't come any better than this bright and cheerful hostal wedged in the streets that mark the boundary between Sol and Huertas. Most rooms are well-sized and each has its own colour scheme.

If you like your hotels to be former palaces, this could be the place for you. The public areas of the hotel are exquisite - a discreetly beautiful palm-filled, light-drenched patio of sandstone and a sweeping staircase guarded by marble lions are the most obvious signposts to this distinguished 18th century past.

A handy central police station where they may have an officer who at least speaks English.

It cannot be stressed enough that newcomers to Madrid must be on their guard. Petty theft is a problem in the city centre, on some public transport and around most main sights. A little prevention is better than a lot of cure - see Safety. Tourists who want to report thefts need to go to the national police. A handy central police station where they may have an officer who at least speaks English is located in the Huertas area.

Any day of the week you can walk into this modern cybercentre and check email or play games. It also offers fax, phonecards and coffee.

An elegant palace converted into one of the most popular dance clubs in Madrid, this is the kind of place where you're guaranteed to meet the locals, whether you want to or not. The crowd can be pretty young and boisterous and the queues long. Thursday is international student and house music night - international relations have never been so much fun.

The founder of this Madrid landmark is said to have invented more than a hundred cocktails, which the likes of Hemingway and Ava Gardner enjoyed at one time or another. It's still frequented by film stars and socialites and is at its best after midnight when a lounge atmosphere takes over and some of the city's best DJs do their stuff.

This unpretentious wine bar is one of the best-known in town and as fashions come and go elsewhere, the classic decor and friendly service has fostered a loyal following of regulars. You can order by the glass or by the bottle.

You'd be mad not to at least pass by this fine little bar with its love of all things Cuban, from the music to the clientele and the Caribbean cocktails. Not surprisingly, the mojitos are a cut above the average and the streetside tables put you in the path of the fascinating Lavapiés street life.

This Art Deco bar is a great spot for an early-evening drink and, if you're clever, you'll stay until 22:00 when Café Central morphs into one of Madrid's best jazz venues. Performances include everything from Latin jazz to fusion, tango and classic jazz at the nightly shows, and the entry prices are quite reasonable.

This Madrid landmark (since 1839) is an elegant treasure-trove of deli items that's ideal for those planning a gourmet tapas dinner party. You can sit down to full meals too and the specialities are Madrid dishes such as callos (tripe) and cocido (a stew consisting of chickpeas, pork and chorizo - pork sausage), as well as perdiz estofada - partridge stew.

En route to or from the bullring, consider this innovative Galician restaurant where the decor is white and fishy and the food dominated by seafood as is the Galicians' wont. The salpicón de centollo (salad of spider crab) is superb and the menú del día is very reasonably priced for such a classy place.

Where many restaurants serving authentic regional Spanish cooking go for dark and traditional decor, this fine Navarran restaurant has a subtly modern aesthetic to accompany its excellent menu - the chuletn (basically a huge juicy chop) for two is outstanding. Fine Navarran wines and alubias rojas de Tolosa (red beans from Tolosa) are other highlights.

Film-maker Pedro Almodóvar finds this bar and restaurant in the traditional Madrid style to be the best anti-depressant. Forget about the sit-down restaurant and just jam into the bar, order a few raciónes off the menu, slosh them down with some gritty red or a caña and enjoy the theatre in which these busy barmen excel.

Something of an icon, The Trout is one of Madrid's great tapas bars. Pull up to the bar and choose from the long list of delicious snacks, or allow the friendly staff to choose for you. There are tables if you feel like a full sit-down meal, although most people seem to prefer to cram into the bar, indulge in a few items and push on elsewhere.