Things to See in Mallorca

Joan Miró's art foundation is housed in the artist's Palma studios and contains a permanent collection of the works stored here at the time of his death. In all, more than 100 paintings, a small collection of sculpture and hundreds of drawings make up the collection. There are also temporary exhibitions and a shop selling Miró souvenirs, prints etc.

Palma's enormous cathedral is often likened to a huge ship moored at the city's edge. Construction work started in 1230 but wasn't completed until 1600. This awesome structure is predominantly Gothic, apart from the main facade and parts of the interior which were renovated in Modernista style by Antoni Gaudí at the beginning of the 20th century.

These Arab Baths are the only extant monument to the Muslim domination of the island. All that remains are two small underground chambers, one of which has a domed ceiling supported by columns. Interestingly, each of the columns is topped by a different capital: the Muslims were really great recyclers and the capitals came from demolished Roman buildings.

The spectacular Museu d'Art Modern i Contemporani takes the grand Renaissance-era seaward fortifications, Es Baluard, as its setting. A 21st-century concrete complex has been built into the walls, creating a playful game of light, surfaces and perspective - the perfect framework for this major exhibition of contemporary artists from Spain and beyond.

A Muslim castle converted into a residence for the Mallorcan monarchs at the end of the 13th century, Palau de l'Almudaina is still occasionally used for official functions when King Juan Carlos is in town.

S'Arenal and Magaluf, the amorphous seaside tourist haunts, are full of bars and discos bursting with the lobster-hued package-tourist crowd. One marvellous exception is the uber laid-back sunset chill lounge, Puro Beach, an all-white bar with tapering outdoor promontory area that is perfect for sunset cocktails, DJ sessions and fusion food escapes.

Blend in with the monochrome decor and wear white, thus emphasising your designer tan.

Enter into the liveliest local music scene in the heart of the old quarter. The Jazz Voyeur Club is one of plenty of watering holes lining Carrer del Apuntadors. The smallish, black, upstairs bar fills quickly for live jazz and soul most nights.

Behind a set of ancient timber doors, Abaco is the bar of your wildest dreams (with nightmarish prices). Inside, a Mallorcan patio and candle-lit courtyard are crammed with elaborate floral arrangements, cascading towers of fresh fruit and bizarre artwork. Bow-tied waiters will fulfil your wishes while classical music soothes your ears. Take a look upstairs.

This pastry shop has the best ensaimada (a light, spiral pastry emblematic of the island) in town. Drop in before you head to the theatre, or simply chow down on this Mallorcan delicacy and check out the peculiar Art Deco facade.

Something of a local institution, a visit to the Celler Sa Premsa is practically obligatory. It's a cavernous tavern (dare we say 'tavernous'?) filled with huge old wine barrels and has walls plastered with faded bullfighting posters. The food is hearty but basic.

While sipping on a hot chocolate is probably not what you had in mind during a visit to sunny Mallorca, it's worth checking out this antique-filled milk bar that dates from 1700. Check out the ladies with their fans and the children with their ice creams.