Things to See in Bangkok

It's touristy, yet completely compelling. This snake farm, one of only a few world-wide, was established in 1923 to breed snakes for antivenoms. The snake feeding and milking shows are a nice sideline; get the snake handlers to show you Thailand's most venomous snakes such as the king cobra, banded krait and Russell's viper.

Thailand's National Museum is the largest museum in Southeast Asia and covers a broad range of subjects, from historical surveys to religious sculpture displays. The buildings were originally constructed in 1782 as the palace of Rama I's viceroy, Prince Wang Na. Rama V turned it into a museum in 1884.

Every foreign country has its famous religious monuments and museums, but how many have their own fleet of royal boats on display? As a former riverine culture, Thailand still maintains the royal barges, once used daily by the royal family for outings and events and now used only for grand ceremonies.

Ancient City (Meuang Boran), south of Bangkok, is billed as the largest open-air museum in the world. Over 100 of Thailand's most impressive monuments are rendered slightly less impressive in this 80-hectare (200-acre) collection of scale models. The grounds follow the basic shape of Thailand itself and the monuments are placed accordingly.

While other temples in the area claim all the fame, Wat Mahathat goes about the everyday business of a temple. Saffron-robed monks file in and out of the whitewashed gates, grandmas in their best silks come to make merit, and world-weary soi dogs haul themselves out of the shade in search of food, if not nirvana.

Marked by a sign that reads 'Alloy' (meaning 'delicious'), this was one of Bangkok's first Thai non-meat restaurants, inspired by the strict diet of the ex-governor of Bangkok, Chamlong Srimuang. It's still one of the best, with none of the oil spills that mar much of the city's vegetarian cuisine. Squeezing in beside the TV and a box of palm oil is well worth it.

A windowless dining room of 10 tables in a creepy alley may not be everybody's ideal lunch destination, but this legendary north Indian continues to draw foodies despite the lack of aesthetics. Try any of the delicious breads or saucy curries, and finish with a homemade Punjabi sweet.

A few dusty paintings are the only effort at interior design at this family-run standby. Where flavour is concerned, however, Krua Noppharat is willing to expend considerably more energy. Krua Noppharat is as popular among foreigners as it is among Thais, but thankfully does not tone down its excellent central and southern-style Thai fare for the former.

Recently relocated to something of a residential district - what do the neighbours think of the noise? Despite the move, the bar's die-hard regulars still file in to witness a revolving cast of jazz, blues and rock. To see what the place is really about come on Sunday evening when the infamous Joe's World Famous Blues Jam kicks off at 9.30.

Bangkok is one the few big cities in the world where nobody seems to mind if you set up the odd restaurant or bar on the top of a skyscraper. Now nearly forgotten, the restaurant Vertigo and the attached Moon Bar started the trend. Come dressed up and grab a coveted seat to the right of the bar for impressive views at sunset.

Patravadi is Bangkok's leading modern-dance venue. A stylish open-air theatre that also includes a gallery and restaurant, the concept is the brainchild of Patravadi Mejudhon, a famous Thai actor and playwright. The dance troupe performance is a blend of traditional Thai dance and modern choreography, music and costume. The theatre is also the primary venue for the Bangkok International Fringe Festival, held in January and February.