Things to See in Dubai

Now a wonderful museum of pre-oil times, the grand courtyard house of Sheikh Saeed, the grandfather of Sheikh Mohammed, sits splendidly on the Shindagha area waterfront, near the Heritage and Diving Villages.

The small but atmospheric covered Spice Souq, once known as the Old Souq, was the largest in the region at the beginning of the 20th century, with over 300 little shops trading their wares.

A peaceful retreat from the traffic that's less than a block away, XVA is a contemporary art gallery, casual café and boutique hotel in one of Bastakia's most beautifully restored old courtyard residences. XVA holds regular exhibitions of art, sculpture and design, with splashy openings; organises Creek cruises with a difference; has a wonderful little gift shop; and runs a film club offering regular art-house movie screenings and discussions.