Things to See in Ho Chi Minh City

Dam Sen Park is the place for slightly bizarre fun, where you'll find giant animals made of coconut shells and CDs. Within its landscaped gardens are lakes and pagodas, an ice-block wonderland and a roller coaster. Couples nap on lawns while those in formal wedding regalia have portraits taken.

The decaying grandeur of this French colonial building houses an eclectic display of art. Spread over three floors, the collection features work from the classical periods alongside abstract and modern Vietnamese pieces. The garden cafe is a preferred spot for elderly gentlemen to exchange stamp collections and sip iced tea.

Believed to be the oldest pagoda in greater HCMC, Giac Lam Pagoda dates from 1744. It's a fantastically atmospheric place full of gilded statues (over 100 in all), colourful wall panels (depicting among other things the path to enlightenment as well as the tortures awaiting those condemned to hell) with one of the country's most impressive stupas (which is 32m tall).

Built in 1909 by the Cantonese (Quang Dong) Congregation, the Jade Emperor Pagoda is truly a gem among Chinese temples. It is one of the most spectacularly colourful pagodas in HCMC, filled with statues of phantasmal divinities and grotesque heroes. The pungent smoke of burning joss sticks fills the air, obscuring the exquisite woodcarvings decorated with gilded Chinese characters.

Once known as the Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes, the War Remnants Museum is now the most popular museum in HCMC with Western tourists. Many of the atrocities documented here were well publicised in the West, but rarely do Westerners have the opportunity to hear the victims of US military action tell their own stories.

Dance clubs in Vietnam have a tendency to change with the wind, but 'Apo' is an exception to the rule. It's been around forever and late at night is a study of the seamier side of international relations. The music is loud, the patrons are from all walks of life and it's apocalyptically rowdy.

Each week the theatre has a different programme, such as Eastern European-style gymnastics, classical music or traditional Vietnamese theatre. Performances typically begin at 20:00; inquire at the theatre or ask at your hotel. And if there's nothing happening when you're in town, you can at least pop into the stylish Q Bar, around the side of the building, for a drink.

Attracting a sophisticated clientele for cocktails, Q Bar is where HCMC's fashion-conscious, alternative crowd hangs out. The stylish décor is cool and minimalist, and the music is hip. It's on the side of the Municipal Theatre, across from the Caravelle Hotel.

Although you may feel like you're eating in a garage, the owners are strict Buddhists who turn out delicious traditional Vietnamese food, prepared with tofu, mushrooms and other vegetables.

Lemon Grass is one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in the city centre. You'd be hard-pressed to find anything bad on the menu, so if you can't decide what to order just pick something at random. The authentic Vietnamese experience is enhanced by two women in traditional costume who play musical instruments while you eat.

For next to nix, two people can sample a spread of regional Vietnamese treats here. Poke around the outside edge first, where cooks at individual stations make their specialities, and see if anything flirts with your appetite.