We were all by ourselves deep in the African bush, only inches of safari vehicle steel separating us from the Big Cat carnivores. Our ranger, Brendon and tracker, Siya, had gone off to look for lions. It was deemed too dangerous for us to come with, so we stayed behind, listening to the orchestra of bird calls.

Suddenly my friend's face went white. I looked over to where she was pointing and my eyes widened with amazement. A couple of metres away, a majestic male lion, with a mane streaked with gold and black sauntered towards us. But we soon realised, with relief, that we weren't on his brekkie menu. There was a large kudu lying dead on the ground, its torso torn and inners exposed. The lion munched a bit before licking his lips and retiring to a sunny spot nearby. But the show wasn't over. Two lionesses lumbered from the bushes and started feasting on the buck, crunching noisily at the bones and getting their paws all bloody.

Meanwhile we mentally willed Brendon and Siya to return and when we saw them approach, we waved vigorously and indicated the gorging cats. They strolled back calm as cucumbers. They're clearly well trained in the way of the wild. I'm sure their hearts must have skipped a couple of beats though.

Unforgettable game viewing
It's a sight that will stay etched in my memory long after I return to the frantic life of the city. That, and the excitement of seeing the lionesses on a hunt the following day. We watched for an adrenaline-packed hour while the cats stalked their prey. The warthogs weren't having any of it and they scuttled away literally out of the jaws of death. Who needs movies when you can experience nature at its most thrilling.

Kwandwe Private Game Reserve is one of those safari parks that you never want to leave. Situated in the Eastern Cape province of South Africa, it's only a short drive from the friendly city of Port Elizabeth but it's as far away from the bustle of urbanity then you can ever get. We were treated like celebrities, fed like royalty and spoiled with wildlife straight out of our childhood storybooks.

The lodge is managed by &Beyond, a safari specialist, which owns and runs over 27 upmarket lodges all over Africa, India and in late 2010, South America. &Beyond lodges pride themselves on impeccable service, warm hospitality and those little touches that make us feel so special.

Delighting guests
One evening after a hearty dinner, I returned to my suite to find the bathroom had been transformed into a twinkling paradise. Tea candles on the floor lit up my path to the ball-and-claw bath filled to the brim with bubbles. Champagne and a chocolate brownie sat on a table nearby. They call these treats - 'guest delights' and in some of the larger lodges they have an entire team dedicated to these indulgent surprises.

There are four lodges on Kwandwe, all well dispersed over the 22,000 hectare property. The sheer space is what separates Kwandwe from similar wildlife estates.

With only 22 suites in the whole complex and the maximum of nine safari vehicles out at one time, the chances are you won't see anyone else but your fellow lodgers during your holiday. There are no traffic jams or fighting over sightings, regular annoyances in more populated reserves. Kwandwe is also malaria free which makes the reserve child friendly and accessible to all.

African Luxury
Our home in Kwandwe was at Melton Manor, the first self-contained lodge I've ever stayed at. I'm used to the more traditional dwelling, such as Kwandwe's Great Fish River Lodge with its ultra-luxurious African-style cottages and central boma (gathering place). Melton Manor is more like a grand but comfortable house. It has four magnificent rooms, a cosy library, a pool where the elephants come and drink and a large dining room with eclectic furniture, a fireplace and an open-plan kitchen with a retro-fridge packed with drinks we could help ourselves to at any time.

The manor has been built specifically for the sole-use of a family or a group of friends travelling together. Bundled in with our booking, we had our own butler, chef, ranger and tracker. It gave us the freedom to decide when we wanted to go out for game drives and what we wanted on the menu. I hinted at my chocoholic tastebuds and at the next dinner chef Anel served a soft centred choccy pudding especially for me. Service was so personalised that by the end of our stay, the team at Melton knew my choice of drink and how I liked my ostrich fillet seared without even asking.

Ranger Brendon and tracker Siya went out of their way to adapt our game drives to our animal favourites. By sunset of day one, I'd seen lions in action, a cheetah with her gorgeous little cubs (which are born with the protective camouflage of black with a white stripe to resemble the aggressive honey badger), heaps of warthogs, a range of buck, white and black rhino and a herd of elephants. When Brendon asked me what I still wanted to see, there was no hesitation. Giraffes, please.

Giraffe Spotting
The following day, we went outside to hop onto the vehicle for our afternoon game drive and in the distance I could see the distinctive craning necks of two giraffe. Talk about good guest service. We took a walk through the veld (bushlands) until we were close enough to the long-necked animals to watch them munch on the tree tops. A very special moment.

Brendon is clearly passionate about his job. He had no problem getting his hands dirty to teach us how to tell which animals were close through close examination of dung left on the ground or which leaves we could eat (spekboom, which taste like Granny Smith apples).

Gruesome demo
Once we watched, morbidly fascinated, while four lion cubs played with a dead bush pig (for some odd reason lions only eat the ears of bush pigs). When we came back along the same path, the cats had left. Brendon hopped out of the landrover and picked up the pig. We watched in horror as the intestines tumbled out in a curled up string of sausage. I think he was quite amused by our grossed-out shrieks.

A day in the African wild
Activities can be tailored to suit guest requests but the general itinerary of the day goes something like this:
Wake-up call at 7am, a tray of Rooibos tea and a rusk (traditional South African biscuit that is delicious dunked into a hot drink) placed into the butler hatch which opens from both the inside and outside of the suite, hot porridge, fruit and toast followed by a game drive at about 8am.

After two to three hours of fascinating game watching, we stop for hot chocolate (Siya made the most creamy hot choccie) and snacks (one day Brendon took out a gas hot plate and made us all pancakes with maple syrup and white chocolate).
Welcomed back to the lodge at about 11am with the Melton team dancing and singing traditional African songs.

Then a casual lunch on the lawn followed by an afternoon snooze, reading a book on the private deck or an in-room massage. High tea at 3pm and then another safari drive shortly after.

We would stop at a scenic spot for sundowners and I would maybe have a G&T to go with the biltong (African styled beef jerky), caramelised nuts and mebos (minced dried fruit sprinkled with sugar).

Then it was back to the lodge to warm up by the fire with a sherry or a cocktail.

Dinner was a delicious three course affair, with an exotic meat such as kudu, eland and ostrich as one of the key ingredients.
After gazing at the spectacular star-filled sky, we would crawl into the cosy King-sized bed for the night. Another blissful day in Africa.

Visit the community
Newly introduced to Kwandwe, are trips to the nearby community. Ten years ago the reserve was a collection of nine ostrich, goat and sheep farms. The owners bought the land, re-introduced the indigenous game to the area (including the big five) and employed many of the local villagers. To combat the high rate of unemployment in the region, the owners founded the Angus Gillis Foundation to empower the local people.

It is heart-warming to see the admirable job the foundation is doing, working at the grassroot level to train up community leaders, unlock potential and to help instil responsibility for their own future. Guests can watch the talented women create the charming unopopana dolls. They can also take part in a number of traditional African pastimes such as drumming, beading, painting or learning how to cook isigwamba - a traditional spinach dish.

HOW TO GET THERE
Qantas flies directly from Sydney to Johannesburg six times a week (everyday except Tuesday). The flight is just under 14 hours so it's worth saving up for an upgrade. Flying business class is a pleasure with almost-flat seat-beds and personal service. I was impressed that the customer service manager welcomed each passenger individually. In most airlines, the steward staff tend to disappear at sleep-time but on Qantas they were always active, roaming the aisles with welcoming drinks and snacks. It's designer all the way with menu's devised by RockPool's Neil Perry, pajama's by Morrissey, amenity kits by Mars Newson and cosmetics by Korner Skincare.
For more info and to book online, visit www.qantas.com.au.

WHERE TO STAY

Athol Place
We spent the night in Johannesburg before taking a morning flight to Port Elizabeth. We stayed at new boutique hotel Athol Place near the upmarket suburb of Sandton. The decor is bold and magnificent with the use of colours and textures that made me want to grab the camera for some tips for my own home's interior design. My suite was large with an emphasis on lavish comfort from the overstuffed couch to the fluffy down dooner. The garden is immaculate with a stylish pool and outside dining area. The dinner and brekkie at Athol Place were exceptional. For more information about this luxurious boutique hotel visit www.atholplace.co.za

Kwandwe Private Game Reserve
Situated at the heart of the malaria-free Eastern Cape province, Kwandwe is within easy reach of South Africa's spectacular coastline and provides the perfect beginning or ending to a journey along the famed Garden Route. More info about Kwandwe

Which lodge is perfect for me?

Uplands - a self-contained, exclusive use lodge. Being the most isolated lodge, Uplands is affectionately known as the independent republic of Uplands. With its three homely bedrooms, the lodge is perfect for families, who want a complete break from city life. The lodge comes with your own private chef, butler, ranger and tracker. Kids are well catered for.

Ecca Lodge - this is a modern lodge, styled in funky African colours. It takes the traditional safari decor and turns it on its head. Suites are luxurious with outdoor shower and plunge pool. This is a child-friendly lodge with a game's room and kids programme to keep the young ones entertained.

The River Lodge - the epitome of a traditionally lavish safari lodge. The suites are huge with outdoor shower, private plunge pool and a spectacular view into the wild. Meals are enjoyed in the upmarket dining room or outside in the boma. It's a romantic honeymoon paradise. Not for kids.

Melton Manor - the newest lodge. Exclusive use lodge with four sumptuous suites with gynormous bathroom with under-floor heating and a deck that is perfect for whiling away the afternoon watching the birds swoop through the clear skies. Melton comes with a chef, butler, ranger and tracker. Great for families or couples travelling together.