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The Holy Land on the cheap
by Michael Kohn

Ever since Moses and the Israelites trekked across into the Promised Land, shoestring travellers have been eager to follow in their footsteps. Many have reasoned salvation and spirituality for their visit, but more recent visitors have come in search of history, family roots, or just a good falafel.

But the days of donkey carts and straw-lined pilgrim lodges are long gone as Israel has taken the upmarket road. With ziggurat-like hotels in Eilat and haute cuisine in Tel Aviv, the Holy Land can woo even the highest end traveller. Yet shoestringers have not been completely squeezed out of the picture: by staying in hostels, riding local transportation and adhering to a strict falafel diet, Israel can be done on USD$30.00 a day.

"In one morning you could get up close with the Dome of the Rock, leave a note at the Wailing Wall and follow in the footsteps of Christ as you tread the Via Dolorosa and the only cost would be tired legs."

Jerusalem is the first stop for most travellers to Israel - shoestringers can skip right through posh West Jerusalem to the predominantly Palestinian area of East Jerusalem or the Muslim Quarter where it's still possible to find a double room for less than USD$20.00 or a dorm bed for USD$6.00. This is also the best part of town for cheap eats - a falafel and a drink will cost around USD$3.00. For a better deal, shop for fresh vegetables in the Old City and stir-fry a meal inside your guesthouse.

There is a lot to see in Jerusalem and trying to visit every last museum could break your bank. Fortunately a student card will knock about 30% off the ticket cost at most museums. Free attractions are also plentiful, including nearly all the sites holy to Christianity, Judaism and Islam. In one morning you could get up close with the Dome of the Rock, leave a note at the Wailing Wall and follow in the footsteps of Christ as you tread the Via Dolorosa and the only cost would be tired legs.

Although most of Jerusalem's attractions are near the Old City, you'll need to use public transport to reach Yad Vashem (the Holocaust Museum) or the Israel Museum in West Jerusalem. The local bus system, Egged, runs a comprehensive network of routes around town - one-way tickets cost USD$1.20. For a low-cost city tour, hop on bus 99 (USD$10.00), which circles Jerusalem in two hours, stopping at major attractions while providing an English-language commentary en route.

Debate is another low-cost commodity in Jerusalem, available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Sit down in a Muslim Quarter teahouse or a West Jerusalem coffee shop, strike up a conversation with a local, and get a first-hand glimpse into what makes the country tick. Both Israelis and Palestinians will happily spend the day gabbing about life, work and politics. Whatever voices you encounter, the sheer range of strong opinions is one of the most fascinating elements of a visit to Jerusalem.

But don't let Jerusalem's addictive nature keep you from experiencing the rest of Israel or the Palestinian Territories. From Jerusalem, hop on an Arab bus (USD$1.20) for a quick trip to Bethlehem, the birthplace of Jesus and your first introduction to life in a Palestinian city. A float on the Dead Sea and a visit to the ancient fortress of Masada make for another good day trip. To cut costs you could forgo the cable car and hike up Masada to catch the sunrise. Another good hike in the Dead Sea area is at the Ein Gedi National Park, a mini Garden of Eden stuck in the blazing desert.

Next, head south into the Negev for budget camping within some dramatic desert scenery. At Be'erot Camping outside the city of Mitzpe Ramon you can sleep in a Bedouin tent for USD$6.00 a night and enjoy a traditional Bedouin meal for USD$5.00. Mitzpe Ramon is well-known among artists, escapists or refugees of commercialism - there is an artists' colony here and a couple of eco-friendly guesthouses that offer guided trips into the desert.

But perhaps one of the best ways of experiencing Israel on the cheap is by volunteering at a kibbutz. Pure socialism may have fallen by the wayside, but the kibbutz experience still lends some insight into communal life, as well as the chance to brush up on your Hebrew and make some Israeli friends.

And finally, for some off-the-beaten-track action, you can't top historical Nablus, an attractive West Bank town squeezed between the mountains of Gerizim and Ebal. It's possible to make the trip independently, but for the sake of security and excellent commentary, use Abu Hassan Alternative tours based in the Jerusalem Hotel.

Shoestringer Daily Budget

Dorm bed in an East Jerusalem guesthouse: USD$6.00

All day city bus pass in Tel Aviv: USD$4.00

Ticket to the Israel Museum with student ID card: USD$7.00

Lunch-time falafel: USD$2.50

Beer in a West Jerusalem pub: USD$3.00

Bus ticket between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv: USD$4.00 (one hour)

Souvenir T-shirt in the Old City: USD$3.50

Can of 'Prigat' juice: USD$0.67 (in East Jerusalem) or USD$1.35 (West Jerusalem).