I saunter up to the wine-tasting counter at a well-known winery in the Hunter Valley.
"Wine tasting for one?" the pleasant lady enquires. "Yes, please," I say.
"Right-o, where would you like to begin? I recommend starting with the whites and then trying a couple of our famous reds"
"Hmm," I stammer. "I'd like to skip right down to the bottom of the list to the stickies. You see, I really only drink dessert wine...and..." I mumble on in an effort to justify my loutish preference.

The lady's piercing stare silences my feeble explanation. Her face clouds over with obvious distaste as she pours me a thimble-full of liquid gold. I grab the sugary wine and retreat to a deserted corner where I can savour this treat in non-judgmental peace.

Dessert wine heaven
There is a place, so I had heard, where dessert wine practically comes out of the taps instead of water. It's a town where I would be admired for my predilection for sweet alcohol instead of being shunned. Most people know this place as Rutherglen. To me, it's simply utopia.

Rutherglen is nestled on the border of NSW and North-East Victoria. It's a popular weekend spot for Melbournians, being only three hours drive away. However, in a snap survey I did amongst some friends, I discovered that this treasured wine valley is virtually unknown to Sydneysiders.

How to get there
It was a toss-up whether to fly or drive to Rutherglen. It's about an eight hour drive from Sydney and a convenient stop-over if you're planning to holiday in Melbourne. But these days, with such cheap flights to Albury (only an hour's flight away), it's worthwhile taking a plane. The only disadvantage is that you're restricted on weight so you'll have to be somewhat picky in your purchases. Once in Albury, Vroom vroom vroom, a car-hire service that guarantees the cheapest rentals, had a car ready for the 30-minute drive to Rutherglen.

Where to stay
There isn't too much choice when it comes to accommodation. There are a couple of motels and B&B's but for the moment, the best place to stay is Tuileries. Each of the 16 rooms has a theme - with my room decorated in a Moroccan style complete with exotic furniture and crimson bed throw. While the suite has a peaceful deck and a spa-bathroom, the kitchen facilities are meager, with a fridge and microwave but strangely no utensils or crockery. But with the outstanding restaurants in Rutherglen, there's no need to stay in.

It's a good idea to have dinner your first night at Tuileries. The restaurant offers an innovative wine buffet. For $22,50 per person, I could drink as much as I liked from a selection of about ten Rutherglen wines. It was a tasty way to find my favourites without committing to a full bottle and an immense help in planning my wine route for the following day. The food was also noteable with hearty portions and desserts to die for.

The guesthouse fell short on brekkie. The bacon and eggs brigade looked satisfied but my hunger for a healthy start was undernourished with empty canisters of cereal, tinned fruit and boring bread still in its plastic bag. Service by the morose waitress didn't help my growly tummy. Oh well, it'll have to be a liquid breakfast then.

The big test
I couldn't wait to put the town's reputation for dessert wines to the test. I stepped into Rutherglen Estates in the same complex of Tuileries. I repeated my well-used line about skipping straight to the sweeties. I cowered, waiting for the storm. But the smile on the tasting lady's face didn't falter. It was still as sunny as the weather outside. She poured me a generous splash of an aged Muscat. It tasted like molten honey mixed with rainbow. Magic stuff. Together with the more regular reds and whites, there were about ten different varietals of fortified wines on the menu and I relished each one. I pinched myself with disbelief. I had surely reached sticky heaven.

It was more of the same in the other wineries I visited. Mouthful after mouthful of viscous bliss. It was obvious that here, these wines aren't after-thoughts but rather celebrated and a source of pride for the town. There's even a categorisation of Rutherglen Muscats that distinguishes each wine based on its complexity of flavours and richness. After a full day of tasting, I was becoming more discerning favouring a Grand Rutherglen muscat over the less intense Classic. It looks like even I'm not immune to a bit of wine snobbery.

First stop...the Wine Centre
There are over 20 wineries to explore in the region. Most of are within easy driving distance of each other. It's a good idea to make your first stop at the Wine Centre, where you can grab a map and have a chat with a friendly volunteer to help plan your route. Give the coffee a skip if it looks busy though - a single cup took about half an hour to make.

19 of the wineries fall within the Winemakers of Rutherglen - an association which markets the wines and holds fun events like the Winery Walkabout on the June long weekend. Many of these wineries are family owned and have been handed down along the generations since they sprung up during the gold rush in the mid 1800's.

Lots of spirit
The passion of these winemakers is obvious. While in the more commercial wine regions, visitors are treated like commodities on a conveyor belt, here in Rutherglen, things are slower. Many of the talented makers are more than happy to chat about their wines. Innovative winemaker Anton Therkildsen of Valhalla Wines, is the new kid on the Rutherglen block having only opened 18 months ago. He was bubbling over with enthusiasm as he took us out back to the heart of all the action where the wine is fermented and churned by hand. With wineries usually centred around gigantic metal tanks, it was heartwarming to see such hands-on dedication.

All Saints is another one of those warm-and-fuzzy happy places. It's a bigger winery with a romantic castle facade and vast lawns perfect for over-energetic children or a snooze in the sun. There's the Indigo Cheese house where you can taste a variety of creamy cheeses and pick up a couple of packets of Screaming Sisters Spices. The winery is run by the three enterprising kids of the late Peter Brown, of Brown Brothers fame.

Celeb-spotting
Over a scrumptious lunch at the Terrace restaurant, older daughter Eliza tells me how she and her siblings (Angela and Nick) still hand work the wines in an effort to maintain a laid-back flavour within the winery. While most visit All Saints for its wide range of delicious fortifieds, some star-struck fans hope to catch a glimpse of farmer Nick from A Farmer Wants a Wife fame. Apparently many ambitious moms bring along photos of their single daughters in the hope to woo the unassuming winemaker.

New kids on the Rutherglen block
There are also a handful of new-blood vineyards, tiny wineries as they call themselves, which have sprung up in the region. I was curious to dig a little into the local politics and find out whether these newcomers have been welcomed or bullied by the established wineries. Scion's charming co-owner Rowly (who runs the boutique winery with his mom, Jan), tells me that his intention is to breathe new life into traditional methods. He wasn't letting on any juicy gossip or rivalries between the larger wineries and I let him off the hook when I tasted his off-dry Fleur wine, made from Orange Muscat grapes. He's gone and turned fortified wine-making on its head by producing a superb single vintage Muscat (this varietal is traditionally made by blending wines from different vintages). We grabbed two bottles without a second sip. With a production of only 1000 cases, this is a wine-label to keep your eye on.

Queen of cuisine
After a full day of sampling, I was euphoric and more than a little tipsy. I was also very hungry. It's not always easy to get a reservation at what would be my pick of restaurants in Rutherglen. Beaumont's Cafe is one of those places that would attract me back to Rutherglen even without the temptation of all that yummy wine. I devoured a tender kangaroo loin bursting with flavour and then finished off the gourmet experience with a decadent flourless chocolate cake with ice-cream.

Pack in a pie
I spent the next morning puzzling over the best way to pack my dozen bottles of prized muscats into my suitcase. But before I left my new favourite town, I stopped off at Parker Pies for a midday snack. Do not, I repeat, do not leave Rutherglen without trying one of these delicate yet robustly rich pastries. The window is awash with signs boasting an array of awards. Believe everything. The kangaroo pie in caramelised onion was packed with top quality meat and wholesome gravy. The classic Parker mince pie was encrusted with melt-in-the-mouth flaky pastry. There is a large variety of gourmet fillings including buffalo, emu and crocodile. While you're there, grab a slice of rocky road or the heavenly Mars bar cake.

With a winning combination of superb wines, cuisine and memorable surrounding towns (see box below), Rutherglen should be at the top of any discerning traveller's list. It offers value for money, is family friendly and made me feel proud of loving a good sticky.

Plan a trip to Victoria's High Country
For more info and to help plan your route visit Tourism Victoria.

RUTHERGLEN FAST FACTS How to get there Drive or fly. I took a Rex Air flight from Sydney to Albury for just over $150 return. If you're flying, then hire a car through Vroom vroom vroom. They are efficient, the cheapest around and they take all the hassle out of comparing car hire rates. Where to stay Tuileries There isn't a whole lot of choice of accommodation in Rutherglen but Tuileries is the best of the bunch. The rooms are comfortable and full of character and there are bonus facilities such as a swimming pool, tennis court and conference centre. Find out more about Tuileries. Winery Wander Start off your day in the Rutherglen Wine Centre to help you plan your route. There are over 19 wineries belonging to the Winemakers of Rutherglen and three independent wineries to visit. Just a quick hint. If a winery has run out of your favourite vintage, try the local IGA. It has a fantastic selection of wines from the whole region There are a number of fun-filled festivals held in Rutherglen, the most famous of which is the Winery Walkabout which will be held over the long weekend in June this year. (see box on the right for more info) Food and Wine hot-spots Beechworth A short 40-minute drive from Rutherglen, lies the immaculately restored historical town of Beechworth. It felt as if I had strayed onto the movie set of a drama set in the gold rush boom of the mid 19th century. Visit the old court house where Ned Kelly was hanged. You can even pick up a souvenir Ned-Kelly-on-the-gallows doll from the Tourism office. There are some delicious cafes and restaurants along the bustling streets. The team at toasty warm Beechworth Provenance will make you feel like you're long lost friends. Pull up a chair and savour the wickedly decadent Italian style hot chocolate. The Sweet Shop is Beechworth's answer to Willy Wonka's factory. Its three rooms are packed with a multi-coloured array of edible treasures. You'll find every variety of hard, soft and chewy lolly along with handmade truffles and imported chocolate bars. The Beechworth Honey Experience holds heaps of amusement for the entire family. I tasted about twenty different flavours of honey before I reached a sugar overload. Then there's a free tour and a chance to spot the Queen Bee in a working hive. Milawa The best thing about Milawa, about a 50-minute drive from Rutherglen, is Brown Brothers. This famous winery has fantastic family friendly facilities, a gourmet food-and-wine pairing restaurant and a large tasting hall. It's worthwhile visiting the Cheese Shop which boasted crunchy fresh bread as well as creamy cheese. The chocolate shop was too small and somewhat grimy, although visitors seemed to be enjoying their ice-creams from the scoop shop here. Milawa Mustards is a must for zesty condiment lovers. We had a taste of a variety of mustards from a mellow mild to a tongue twistingly hot.