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A gourmet taste of France in New Caledonia

By: Lisa Wolff, Yahoo!7 Travel

I often get cravings for a real French croissant or a straight-from-the-oven meltingly delicious pain au chocolat. Sadly, Paris is thousands of kilometres and just as many dollars away. But I've recently discovered an authentically French gourmet haven in a relaxed island paradise only two and a half hours away from Sydney.

Celebrity endorsed
New Caledonia is one of those popular day cruise spots. Happy holidaymakers swarm the local markets for a few hours and then retreat back into their oversized ships for another feed. But there's so much more to the destination than a flitting trip to the mainland could ever satisfy. Its gourmet secrets, endorsed by celebrity chef Gabriel Gaté, would need at least several days to properly uncover.

The 500km long island is different from its more well-known South Pacific neighbours. Yes, New Caledonia is still very much a tropical island - the palm trees, turquoise waters and eternal summer temperatures are all here. But it's also rich with nickel, which means it doesn't rely on tourism for its prosperity. And that means, less commercialism and high rise hotels.

French charm
Being a French territory adds a unique flavour to the island. Take a generous handful of South Pacific charm, smiles and natural beauty. Mix in some French sophistication, culture and cuisine, and shake it all up. The perfect recipe for an exotic island getaway.

After a pleasant two and a half hour flight on Aircalin, we touched down on Noumea, the first stop on our trip to New Caledonia. It's also the home of the international airport and the capital of the mainland. We arrived in the dark but it was still a balmy mid-20's warmth outside. As I peeled off the layers, I couldn't believe that the temperature had jumped more than 10 degrees since taking off from Sydney. So remember to pack your swimmers.

Aircalin flies daily direct from Sydney and four times a week from Brisbane to Noumea. Book your flight now.

We lay our heads on the plush pillows at the five-starred Le Meridien. The facilities here are top-class with a large pool, spa and a renowned French restaurant, together with a more casual dining area. The bathroom was my favourite bit with a glass panel and speakers allowing one to relax in the bath while enjoying the action on TV in the bedroom. The décor in the rooms is somewhat dated but I hear a major refurb is on the cards.

Where to stay
We also stayed at the Ramada Plaza, the twin towers within steps of the bustling Anse Vata beach. This hotel is more my kind of style with its upmarket, self-catering apartments. Rooms are modern and stylish with a flat screen TV, kitchen and washing machine and dryer. Perfect for a family or a business stay.

Stay at the luxurious Ramada Plaza for as little as \ per room per night (two people sharing).
Click here to book

If you're a foodie like me, then Noumea is culinary heaven. There is a choice of French restaurants, with many of them boasting chefs from diverse gastronomic areas within France. It seems that the French come on holiday and then never leave.

One of the top chefs in New Caledonia is Didier Broux who conjures up his French magic at Restaurant 360, a revolving restaurant at the summit of the Ramada Plaza hotel. This is a sophisticated visit, worth flinging off your beach thongs for more suitable attire. The meals are a feast to look at with flavours to match. Our dessert tasting plate was pure edible art with mouthfuls of chocolate mousse, apple tart and vanilla soufflé - all very French and delectable.

Another scenic eatery, perched on stilts in the water, is Le Roof. Roof's gimmick is its viewing atrium (basically a hole in the floor). We threw down chunks of bread into the crystal clear water and watched the excitable fish snatch up the food.

A fun night out
There's plenty of more casual diners too, including the creative Signing Nuns run by, you guessed it, an order of nuns. Apparently they break out into song while you're eating. Another favourite is Les 3 Brasseurs (the three brewers). The pub has an in-house brewery and you can mingle with the locals and enjoy their speciality flammekueche - a paper thin pizza topped with a variety of toppings.

For top notch dining, expect to pay up to \ per head. However prices come down significantly at the less formal brasseries. Remember, you can also always grab a crepe from Le Rocher Creperie or a baguette in a cafe for a couple of dollars.

Learn to cook like the French
It's always a fun to do a cooking course at a holiday destination. You can't visit Thailand without learning to make pad-thai. So too in New Caledonia, it's becoming popular to get some tips on the art of French cooking. The best place to learn from the French masters is at The Escoffier School of Cooking, named after the famous French chef who modernised stuffy French menus.

The Superb Food and Wine tours organise culinary demos and hands-on short courses at the school as part of its gourmet experience. Run by dynamic husband and wife team, Justine and Errol Jones, the tours cover a five-day programme of degustation and three-course dinners to give visitors a taste of island-style France.
Visit their website for more info.

At the local market
I met Louis, one of the chef-teachers, at the local market. He explained that it's a good idea to get there early as stalls start closing shop by midday. Louis led us through the fish market pointing out the rainbowed parrot fish and the fresh chunks of tuna.

There were also mountains of French pastries, fruit and veg (including the popular yams and taros) and souvenirs on offer.

Back at Escoffier, we watched mesmerised as the chefs conjured up a stylish two-course meal within an hour. Louis's mantra was how easy it all was to put together. I have an inkling that even with wearing my chef's hat and apron, it would still take me the better half of a day to prepare.

The school is attached to the 'Auguste Escoffier' restaurant so if it all seems too much effort to cook yourself, you can taste the student's menus here. It's open for lunch everyday and on Friday nights for dinner.

A gourmet tour
During the sun-drenched New Caledonian days, it's a pity to stay indoors. So we decided to gather some ingredients for a picnic in the park. We first visited the local supermarket, bought some crusty baguettes (no meal is complete without one here) and foie gras (imports from France are very well priced on the island. Make sure the foie gras doesn't contain egg or it will be confiscated at Aussie customs). We then made a stop in the main town at French franchised Comtesse Du Barry. This upmarket deli - a local version of the gourmet store in France - offers an impressive range of tinned delicacies and wine from all over the world.

The outing was almost abandoned when I spied Chocolats Morand. The large shop window allows chocoholics to watch the making of truffles and pralines in action. I could have stayed there for the rest of the day. But inside the shop was just as good. Mr Morand, a Normandy trained patissier, offered us melt-in-the-mouth morsels and explained how he enjoyed experimenting with chocolate from different countries. There was 75% cocoa content from Tanzania and for the brave, 85% dark from Cuba. A box of truffles in hand, I was pulled from the store to continue to our lunch stop.

Island hopping
You've probably realised by now that New Caledonia definitely knows its food. But there is also heaps to do besides eating. There are many islands around the mainland which are perfect for exploring. There are some within a few minutes water taxi ride of Noumea (like perfect-for-a-party Duck Island) or a 40-minute domestic flight to drop down on the magnificent Loyalty islands. The Isle of Pines, a short 20-minute flight from the capital is the favoured honeymoon retreat. While I didn't get a chance to visit, I've heard it boasts immaculate beaches and fantastic water sports.

We took a full-day boat trip with charming skipper Frederic Dallo, who sailed us in his luxurious catamaran to uninhabited Signal Island. I can't remember feeling more relaxed as I stretched out on the netting at the front of the boat. Drinks and a three-course lunch is included. Try out the surprise baguette - a New Caledonia speciality. It's a large pumpkin-shapped baguette that's been hollowed out and filled with sandwiches (the fillings are the surprise).

New Caledonia is protected by a 1,600km coral reef bestowing the archipelago with the title of the largest lagoon in the world. It has also recently been declared a world heritage site. This means calm, clear waters and the perfect environment for snorkelling or scuba. I swam in schools of colourful fish and we even spied a couple of turtles, dolphins and a small shark.

Frederic offers a number of different sailing options. Book your tour on www.daloceancharter.nc/en

Adventure!
While you could easily spend a week or more discovering Noumea, it is worthwhile hiring a car and exploring the rest of the mainland. The roads are in excellent condition but keep in mind you'll be driving on the right side of the road.

We headed inland to Farino for an awesome quad biking adventure (at Refuge de Farino) and some local food (hearty stews filled with yam and chicken). You could even do a leisurely circumference of the island in a few days. But the further away you get from Noumea, the more French the locals become. So be sure to pack your translation book.

I left New Caledonia amazed. I really didn't expect such a diverse range of cuisine, culture and activities. I don't think many people know about the treasures that New Caledonia holds. Visit soon - I reckon the secret is out!

For further information about New Caledonia and all the island has to offer, check out the New Caledonia tourism website.



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